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OP.

The question about the different type of strokers in the 2.8 range. How hard do you want to turn this thing? Realistically, with low mounts (with reasonable sized cams) they will be all said and done by 8-8500 RPM anyway. A semi counter kit like a Tomei will do the job more than adequately. If you have coin to burn then choose your poison. Will you notice any difference, probably not.

Just get bosch motorsport 1000cc or keep the 800cc and pump up rail a couple pound if required.

2200cc would be absolutely rubbish on petrol couldn't imagine what Juty cycle they would be running at they probably won't even open at that low of a duty cycle required for petrol.

On 98 youll have plenty room to move on the most basic intank setups.

Maybe 2 x 044s or a 460

Edited by mr skidz

OP.

The question about the different type of strokers in the 2.8 range. How hard do you want to turn this thing? Realistically, with low mounts (with reasonable sized cams) they will be all said and done by 8-8500 RPM anyway. A semi counter kit like a Tomei will do the job more than adequately. If you have coin to burn then choose your poison. Will you notice any difference, probably not.

as long as it makes the required 450awkw, I'm happy to keep it under 8500.

I probably wouldn't go for the GTX turbo options if staying with 98, they love boost, you'd want ot run 30psi wtih them but i'm not sure thats' going to happen on 98.

Spool 2.8, big sump, all the usual oil system enlargement, bigger oil pump, -5 turbos, good exhaust, good cooler, id1000 injectors walbro 460 intank pump, new ecu maybe, away you go.

I probably wouldn't go for the GTX turbo options if staying with 98, they love boost, you'd want ot run 30psi wtih them but i'm not sure thats' going to happen on 98.

Spool 2.8, big sump, all the usual oil system enlargement, bigger oil pump, -5 turbos, good exhaust, good cooler, id1000 injectors walbro 460 intank pump, new ecu maybe, away you go.

This sounds accurate. Actually sounds significantly tougher than the beloved Z-tune spec.

The Brian Crower stroker kit (I have) is 79mm stroke, which is longer than some of the others (Z-tune & Tomei are 77.7mm), which will yield more bottom end torque and overall displacement with a "theoretical" reduction in RPMS. I say this all with a grain of salt because BC claims their rotating assembly is good for 1,200 HP on "sportsman rods" (10,000 rpms) and over 1,500 HP (11,000 rpms) on their upgrade "625 rods" (which are nothing more than upgraded fasteners in the same rods). Granted you'd be hard pressed to find my car revving that high! The upgrade is that these cranks are bomb-proof billet 4340 cranks.

That being said I went with BC because I'm in the US and got a great deal on a whole package of BC stuff. I want a responsive bottom end setup for my car but also want to be able to chuck the boost at it later without worrying much. So my setup is:

BC stroker w/ sportsman rods, CP valve-relieved pistons ordered at 8.5:1 CR. From what they say the pistons are -15.77cc domes.

brand new N1 block (standard 86mm bores)

This puts me at 2.75L on standard bores with the 79mm stroke.

Tomei PONCAM A - yes 'A'. I want the car to be a very nice streetable powerband. These are still bigger than stock by a large margin, but shouldn't lope at idle (especially with the stroker).

Turbo - this is where I'm different - BW 8374 EFR .92 IWG divided w/ 6boost divided manifold.

I expect to be at the dyno within 45 days!

(THIS IS INCORRECT SEE REMARKS BELOW!) - I actually think 800cc injectors and -5's coupled with a stroker will get you to your goal on pump gas. I'm only using 800cc as they are likely good for 800 HP (and my turbo is only good for 750 HP).

Good luck! You may want to follow my build thread here for notes.

EDIT- REALIZED YOU SAID 460 AWKW....was thinking 460 whp.

In the u.s -5's make 800hp on RB26's[emoji23]

Oh Boy. I just realized he stated 460 AWKW! Sorry about that...Moot point from me and the -5's. Best get the -10's out. Was thinking 460 WHP...different. In which case, 460whp, -5's and 800cc are just about fine :)

And regarding my build...dynos are dynos. I'll get Hatlech data from road pulls for you guys to compare later on. I don't care for dyno numbers, I just want my car to be fast around a race track. I'm *hoping* for 550 whp on pump gas and a nice fat powerband with my setup and I am not handicapping myself with stock turbos / manifolds. I think my math is right on 800cc injectors capable of 800 HP right around 87% duty cycle though.

Different compressors on the gt2860 core from garrett.

I personally wouldn't go with them as they are... miss matched. Best bet is to just go -5's and get what they get. they may not give 450kw but you really aren't going to get a better pair of stock position turbos on 98. and if you ever do go E85 should get you close to the mark but you'll need to upgrade the entire fuel system of course.

This sounds accurate. Actually sounds significantly tougher than the beloved Z-tune spec.

The Brian Crower stroker kit (I have) is 79mm stroke, which is longer than some of the others (Z-tune & Tomei are 77.7mm), which will yield more bottom end torque and overall displacement with a "theoretical" reduction in RPMS. I say this all with a grain of salt because BC claims their rotating assembly is good for 1,200 HP on "sportsman rods" (10,000 rpms) and over 1,500 HP (11,000 rpms) on their upgrade "625 rods" (which are nothing more than upgraded fasteners in the same rods). Granted you'd be hard pressed to find my car revving that high! The upgrade is that these cranks are bomb-proof billet 4340 cranks.

That being said I went with BC because I'm in the US and got a great deal on a whole package of BC stuff. I want a responsive bottom end setup for my car but also want to be able to chuck the boost at it later without worrying much. So my setup is:

BC stroker w/ sportsman rods, CP valve-relieved pistons ordered at 8.5:1 CR. From what they say the pistons are -15.77cc domes.

brand new N1 block (standard 86mm bores)

This puts me at 2.75L on standard bores with the 79mm stroke.

Tomei PONCAM A - yes 'A'. I want the car to be a very nice streetable powerband. These are still bigger than stock by a large margin, but shouldn't lope at idle (especially with the stroker).

Turbo - this is where I'm different - BW 8374 EFR .92 IWG divided w/ 6boost divided manifold.

I expect to be at the dyno within 45 days!

I don't buy into the whole "revs less" argument from strokers. Yes its probably got a lower maximum revs but i get the impression that the valve train limits that on any possible engine configuration regardless. I went for a ride in a Spool 2.8 equipped car and it honestly seemed more willing to rev than a stock car. That tipped me over the edge on my decision, I think it was the full conterweighted crank that makes engine a lot nicer to drive.

I went for a target of 9.5:1 on mine however it will barely be run off of ethanol so that should be fine. Turbos are gtx2860's and Cams are the unigroup ones, 260/10.85, so it should go alright and make good use of the E85.

If I was doing this again I would just go and buy a complete bottom end from someone like Spool or RIPS and save time, effort, money, time and effort and head f**king and time and money.

Alternatively buy my very stock looking RB28 with a GTX3582 with VCT because even though it now works I'm still over the time, effort, money, time, effort, money and time and effort and money relating to a RB28.

If I was doing this again I would just go and buy a complete bottom end from someone like Spool or RIPS and save time, effort, money, time and effort and head f**king and time and money.

Alternatively buy my very stock looking RB28 with a GTX3582 with VCT because even though it now works I'm still over the time, effort, money, time, effort, money and time and effort and money relating to a RB28.

What's the difference between a built 2.6 or a stroker in an RB 26 block. Money wise it's a couple grand (crank cost). Both have to be assembled.

If I was doing this again I would just go and buy a complete bottom end from someone like Spool or RIPS and save time, effort, money, time and effort and head f**king and time and money.

Alternatively buy my very stock looking RB28 with a GTX3582 with VCT because even though it now works I'm still over the time, effort, money, time, effort, money and time and effort and money relating to a RB28.

that motor would be every GT-R's owner's wet dream... VCT, good responsive turbo and all in just a little past 4000 rpm... none of this 5500rpm full noise bullshit...

What's the difference between a built 2.6 or a stroker in an RB 26 block. Money wise it's a couple grand (crank cost). Both have to be assembled.

I think he means pre-built bottom end, instead of sourcing the parts individually, taking to block to XYZ place, then installing parts at ABC place, etc..

What's the difference between a built 2.6 or a stroker in an RB 26 block. Money wise it's a couple grand (crank cost). Both have to be assembled.

Yep, which is why you do neither and straight up buy a complete RB34 bottom end from someone like spool. Specifically that. Yes, they have to assemble it, but my problems really come from it being assembled wrong, multiple times. If it all worked fine first go, by all means yep do it, but as soon as any variable is slightly altered the chances of something going wrong increase exponentially (in my experience!).

I would suspect guys like Spool to be building a solid product every time vs rolling the dice at the local engine builder.

that motor would be every GT-R's owner's wet dream... VCT, good responsive turbo and all in just a little past 4000 rpm... none of this 5500rpm full noise bullshit...

I actually make full power at 4000RPM :P

Did think about pulling it out and putting into a GTR which has a blown engine with an adaptor plate of sorts because RB25 neo :P. But realistically a pipe dream when a GTR user can just save the money, buy a complete bottom end built by whoever and do that. The path less travelled can really bite badly when the stakes are engine builds.

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