Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

jesus christ Borci, let it go man, why are you sticking so hard to your guns?

nistune is fine, personally if i was spending money to push to 400 i would like some safety features, i would go maffless as resolution may become an issue. there is a good argument to go haltec and a decent argument to stay nistune. there is still a good argument to go and spend allot more and get a motec or something.

BUT your banging on like he should rip out a nistune and spend money on a used pfc like a bad used car salesman, where was your valid point in this thread before you filled it with shit and arguments?

wtf are you talking about? I explained myself that everybody else was harping on about every other ECU under the sun like he somehow needed something OTHER than a Nistune, which he doesnt. So I threw the PFC in as another option if he HAD to change, and then everyone jumps on it exclaiming its the biggest piece of shit.

Also I don't know if we can use "Hectic software" as a selling point :P 90% of people who buy a Haltech, don't tune it themselves so theres no value in it for them.

But yes to set the story straight I went Nistune first because it was free, then I put a PowerFC on my car on loan, for free. So I have no bias when it comes to BUYING ECUs. The reason why I didn't buy a Haltech was cost, I don't have a NEED for its features, and neither do a large proportion of skyline owners. Might be a great ECU, but I'll be damned if I need anything more than what the latest Nistune offers with Flex and Launch Control (which I never even used).

Don't forget, PFC Pro had launch control many years ago :no:

  • Like 1

I bought my power fc for $400 with controller vs haltech $2100 new without additional additional sensors.

Flex is the ONLY reason i went haltech

what additional sensors?

I hear of everybody saying you have to buy extra sensors for haltech.

Apart from flex sensor and larger map sensor (due to the boost I want to run), I didn't need any other sensors other than factory.

My first set up was just plug ecu in, and run vac line to on board map sensor.

The latest vipecs are a great bit of kit. Easy to tune, loads enough functions for your requirements and great support. But, to be honest, you can have an m800 full tilt set up and it can run like a corolla from the 70s if you dont have the right people behind the keyboard.

I suggest you start looking for a great tuning yoda and then, with his guidance, go from there

  • Like 1

what additional sensors?

I hear of everybody saying you have to buy extra sensors for haltech.

Apart from flex sensor and larger map sensor (due to the boost I want to run), I didn't need any other sensors other than factory.

My first set up was just plug ecu in, and run vac line to on board map sensor.

You don't HAVE to buy additional sensors but those who run a Haltech run a HALTECH for FLEX reasons.

flex tunes want boost and ethanol, so you'll need the content sensor and the 3 bar map sensor which is exactly what you just mentioned.

Add them to the price as well.

temperature and pressure sensors & O2 wideband kit is also more again if you want to use haltechs wonderful features you'll need all of the senses to read them obviously just stating it doesn't stop at $2100 to fully utilise it's features.

The price difference between a brand new power fc djetro and a haltech is less than $200...(brand new) and that's not counting shipping for the fc.

Why on god's earth would you buy one over the haltech? You literally waste $500 on a tune if in 12 months you want more than what the fc offers. Haltech has the future proof. It's literally a no brainer

  • Like 1

5 pages and OP hasn't been back since page 1. Question asked and answered on page 1.

What he has will get him what he wants with a couple of cheap 2nd hand larger AFM's.

the rest is cage rattling

Edited by Anonymouse
  • Like 3

5 pages and OP hasn't been back since page 1. Question asked and answered on page 1.

What he has will get him what he wants with a couple of cheap 2nd hand larger AFM's.

the rest is cage rattling

Why not a single R35 AFM?

You don't HAVE to buy additional sensors but those who run a Haltech run a HALTECH for FLEX reasons.

flex tunes want boost and ethanol, so you'll need the content sensor and the 3 bar map sensor which is exactly what you just mentioned.

Add them to the price as well.

temperature and pressure sensors & O2 wideband kit is also more again if you want to use haltechs wonderful features you'll need all of the senses to read them obviously just stating it doesn't stop at $2100 to fully utilise it's features.

I bought mine because it was the best option at the time.

In my eyes, still is.

Didn't have a lot of the features it does now (one of the reasons I bought it, free software updates).

Now has flat shift, launch control, anti lag and flex capabilities.

And at only 1800 delivered.

This was when the platinum pro plug in was only a couple of months old.

I'm on my 3rd tune (different set ups and engines), and still loving it.

Each to their own.

+ wideband 02 feedback

+ 2-step, launch

+ flex

+ engine protection

+ no MAF

+ hectic software

+ no need for data logit box shit

+ usb plug wooooo, serial is homo

+ much much more, we'll even included a set of steak knives.

A fancy list of can dos does not make it a good ecu

People are seeming to miss what makes a good ECU, and that is running the blood engine the way the tuner wants it to run when the tuner wants it to run in the direction it is supposed to be running

A fancy list of can dos does not make it a good ecu

People are seeming to miss what makes a good ECU, and that is running the blood engine the way the tuner wants it to run when the tuner wants it to run in the direction it is supposed to be running

ive seen this video and am still skeptical of it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...