Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello every one!

I recently bought a skyline gts-t rb25, and I need to replace the clutch because it is slipping. I have been trying to research but cannot decide what would be best for my needs.

I will only be driving on the road, and not track, and the car is not highly modded. I understand a puck or ceramic button type would not be suitable for this.
Therefore I would not like something with an extreme clamp pressure? what is the stock clutches clamp pressure ? what is high ? what is low ? is this the only thing that effects stiffness of the pedal?

Is it worth getting a "heavy duty" clutch? or will this be too stiff or cause unnecessary wear and tear ?

what is meant by stage, 1, 2 ,3 and 4 clutches ?

what are the pros/cons between single and multiple plate clutches? are they equal in difficulty to install ?

Also finally, I would like to ask, if the clutch has been slipping, how likely it is the flywheel may be damaged and need replacing?? (I know you can get it machined, I just mean cracked or scorched or whatever.)

I whole heartedly thank anyone who can help me with advice, or perhaps link me to some already on the internet.

xoxo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465109-which-clutch-to-buy/
Share on other sites

Same clutch here. Glad to know yours is holding up fine at that level, hoping to nudge 350kw when I install my 30DET.

Same here. 4 years on NPC 10" single plate carbotic. 2 years on 300kw 25. 2 years on 340kw 25/30 and has done 6/7 drift days and thousands of street km.

Same here. 4 years on NPC 10" single plate carbotic. 2 years on 300kw 25. 2 years on 340kw 25/30 and has done 6/7 drift days and thousands of street km.

have done the cheeky 2nd gear clutch dump stationary too :)

have done the cheeky 2nd gear clutch dump stationary too :)

I have done more than my fair share of that too haha. Have dropped third on the spot with shitty old 215's as well haha. Decided I should cut that out because I really do like my gearbox

haha 2nd and 3rd are being being too gentle I do 4th stationary limiter drops nismo twin and box still live on haha

  • Like 1

Exedy Cushion Button :yes:

No

Mine failed after about 8 months with 250rwkw

NPC is much better. Never ever had a drama. Got it rebuilt when I put my new engine in but that was only to extend the life. Still looked great after 3 years

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...