Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a Gtr r33 and looking to install the Garrett-5's. Installed already is the air intake and 3inch exhaust with a sports cat. What I will be installing with the turbos are: 1125cc Bosch injectors, tomei cams and camshaft, tomei dump pipes. My question is what the max spool on these turbos with the mentioned mods? (What RMP when full boost kicks in?)

What I would like to know if anyone has installed these on their Gtr r33 and their thoughts on this?

Wanting to use this on the street and track...

Thanks.

Edited by CU's GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465154-garrett-2860-5-max-spool/
Share on other sites

The fuel will be premium fuel (98). Boost level is unsure of at the moment. If possible 1.5 bar. I've looked through forums but most talk about kw at the wheels. Not to concerned on that. I expect to produce somewhere between 300-350 kw at all wheels. Current set up is producing 240kw at the wheels.

I just want to ensure the right turbo is use for and not too much lag. If full boost is around 3500rpms this would be fine.

On stock engine and cams, -5 max spools at around 5000 rpm, with bigger intercooler, dumps etc max spool at 4500 rpm, unsure about cams(depends which one). I think it would be hard to get max spool at 3500 rpm with -5 on rb26, maybe able to bring it down to 4000 rpm if you get hard pipes everything and bigger exhaust like piggaz said.

The fuel will be premium fuel (98). Boost level is unsure of at the moment. If possible 1.5 bar. I've looked through forums but most talk about kw at the wheels. Not to concerned on that. I expect to produce somewhere between 300-350 kw at all wheels. Current set up is producing 240kw at the wheels.

I just want to ensure the right turbo is use for and not too much lag. If full boost is around 3500rpms this would be fine.

For 300-350 kw atw better off going with -9 and e85, it will be less laggy than -5. With -5 you will eventually need to go to 400kw to make sense.

Your never going to see full boost at 3500 with -5s it doesn't matter what you do

To get the best out of them tho

-Big exhaust and dumps (twin 3in into 3.5 minimum)

-Cam gears (no cams they send you backwards)

-Bigger and better intercooler (not an eBay Chinese special)

-E85 (makes a huge difference)

*increase your capacity (stroker or etc)

*vcam or the otomoto veriable cam system

The ones with the - should be on your list no matter what the * are if you can afford it, but a car with the entire list would be a weapon

  • Like 1

For 300-350 kw atw better off going with -9 and e85, it will be less laggy than -5. With -5 you will eventually need to go to 400kw to make sense.

but this is a better idea, my car with the stock engine and -7s makes 348kw on e85 and has fantastic response
  • Like 1

R32-25t, my concern with e85 is the availability of petrol stations around. Are you from melb and if so have you found it difficult for filling up for weekend drives?

Originally I opted for the -7, from what you have mentioned may relook at the -7's.

Looking at the specs on the intercooler on the GTR R33's is rated up to 450kw? Would you still change them?

ive still got the standard one in mine but we have seen proven gains right through the rev range from changing them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...