Guide Lines Of A Reliable Build

[MJTru]

Hi. Guys not only from reading over the past years have i came up with learning some things you have to change when it comes to making some good power from rb26 motors or the whole line up of rb series motors. But i would like to see if im on the right track or even missed a few things. Please bare with me as i might have these in the wrong order.

Im doing 2 build at the moment and also would really appreciate good advice. I would like to say thanks from now.

First of long time ago i came across the oil problems from crank collar to block oil restriction and larger sump to head drain, even driling the return holes larger.

Also from a stock stand point weak ring landings, stock turbo limitations,

Even after endless amounts of money and time im now learning that these motors also can brake valve guides at high rmps.

Im hoping we can go over some few points im taking to do my new builds.

Im going to change every damn thing in the motor that changeable. Lol. What i would like to know and some would say just do it is. The buckets in the heads i see that there available from Tomei but are they necessary, what are some benefits of doing it, if any. Here is what i plan on doing.

I want a good steer/drag build of about 750whp.

The motor.

New head sent to port flow and design in CA to have all the work done to the head.

As of now i have BC giudes, supertech STD valve, supertech dual valve spring 92 seat pressure, have no idea on what cam specs to go with, or to change buckets. New timing belt, N1 Water pump, greddy oil pump, custom head drain, Racefab sump, CP pistons upgraded pins. 20 over pistions running 8tho ring gap, piston to wall clearance will be 3 to 4 tho. All ARP head and main studs, ACL race bearings, new oem nissan crank shafts. Manley rods with + 625 bolts. im also planning on having port flow and design just polish up the head and make bowls clean. Turbo is a gtx3582r t4 twin scroll using dual 38mm tial gates with 6 boost manifold. Running power fc with 800 cc injectors but will uograde later. Duel intank e85 450 walbro pumps. (F90000267) along with a apexi head gasket 1.5mm at 87mm bore size.

Thats about l all i can think of i hope i didn't miss anything. Im also doing another build right after this one but 1mm over valves by suptech all the same, just a Tomei oil pump.

I would really appreciate any advice you guys may have. I hope to get a reliable rb motor this time. Damn talk about being loyal to skylines and rb's.

[33GTRV]

Reliable and 750+ requires cash and a reasonable amount of it. If you want the ultimate in reliability then dry sump it, do all the cooling system mods with an electric water pump set up with a variable speed controller and post cooling. Once you see the cost of that come back and talk engine componentry, cylinder head builds and drivetrain components

[MJTru]

Reliable and 750+ requires cash and a reasonable amount of it. If you want the ultimate in reliability then dry sump it, do all the cooling system mods with an electric water pump set up with a variable speed controller and post cooling. Once you see the cost of that come back and talk engine componentry, cylinder head builds and drivetrain components

Damn im suprised that you cant get 750 from a RB26. looks like ill be saying good bye RB's Always had it in the back of my head. Time for some good old v8's thanks mate. RB's = waste of money. Ill waste it one more time.

[MJTru]

Damn im suprised that you cant get 750 from a RB26. looks like ill be saying good bye RB's Always had it in the back of my head. Time for some good old v8's thanks mate. RB's = waste of money. Ill waste it one more time.

Well reliably. Speaking

[33GTRV]

You asked, i spoke. Take it how you want to. Plenty of people will kick up and say " oohh, i have 750hp and have had for years" but how many actual thrashings do they get? If you build a car like these things, you are going to want to thrash the snot out of it and do it with peace of mind. Well m i do anyway.

[Dobz]

What is meant by "steer/drag build"? Circuit and drag?

From the details you give about engine specs it looks like you have good mechanical strength and all the supporting mods for power. As long as it has been put together right it shouldn't give you trouble. You can have the most bulletproof engine setup mechanically but it means nothing without a good tune. A tune can make or break any engine.

What is being done on the ecu and tuning side of things?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Need displacement

[Dasmbo]

Id get rid of the Power FC as your intake will be to restrictive at that power output id get some other ECU that does not require a AFM

[MJTru]

Ok lets relook at this abit. I dont mind change to another ecu, or even changing to a better intake.

What power level would be very reliable for a rb26. Keeping in mind i want to retain a wet sump. Maybe later a dry sump setup in another car. This car is ment for street and occasional drag passes.

What you you guys think about supertech dual valve springs. and TI retainers. 92lb seat pressure??

[Country Cruzin]

Hmm your going to want a different spec motor for "drag racing" to circuit n street. If u just want it to be quick in a straight line get at least 270 degree cams. But if u want it for track n street as well I'd make it at least a 2.8L since your replacing the crank rods n Pistons anyways. I saved a few K when I built mine n stuck with a 2.6L but it has 270degree cams n -5 turbos so is a bit laggy. Makes 550hp on E85 n seems reasonably reliable (for a Gtr, every Gtr owner also needs a diesel hilux so they can still get to work lol) bn told around 500hp is about the reliability level for the 33gtr drivetrain ( depending how much abuse it of course)