Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So decided to buy myself a new track car.


Car no. 2 of 3 built by Nismo (autostaff were contracted to fabricate to Nismo design).


The car was raced during the 2001/2002 season in Super GT Japan - GT300 class.


Unfortunately the car was plagued by bad luck and engine failures, but still managed to be 3rd in the championship both years. (in 2001 suspension failure cost them a DNF when in the lead and on points the championship, 2002 a tyre failure cost them in the same situation)


I will update the thread with infomation and data as i go. keep an eye out for it at WTAC this year!


8_nq1_zpsampn98gc.jpg

gatebil-rudskogen-2014-the-one-in-septem

10339245_10152375876775586_7404312538842

01x_003a_zpsne5msesj.jpg

11088948_10204153707907176_112832433_n_z

8_nq1_zpsampn98gc.jpg

B8-6By9IAAA1yKn_zps74vxdzj2.jpg

  • Like 11
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465313-my-super-gt-nismo-s15-gt300/
Share on other sites

Will be updating with pics soon - you can also keep an eye on the facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/dmmsydney

It will be competing this year - entered in Pro-Am class! Engine is half built atm (i just need to pull my finger out and finish it) then all thats left is fit gearbox and kick it over!

Edited by DMM

Heres some pics of the engine build and associated things:

P12 SR20VE outer springs with 16ve inner springs. N1 retainers (16grams each!!) and special cams from the Nissan motorsport shelves.

13403153_1151304071608904_80147671905469

Custom CP pistons - 86.5mm, teflon style skirt coatings, ceramic top coat - few other trick things done underneath - but no pictures of this ;) - Weight is 299/300grams per piston.

Special NISMO I beam conrods with titantium bolts. Weight is 455 grams each.

13346315_1145834615489183_72522859038620

DSC_0183_zpsvmwjym4z.jpg

DSC_0182_zpspz0t2dcg.jpg

DSC_0174_zps9h7vidvp.jpg

Exedy Hyper carbon clutch - managed to grab this from some old stock a friend in Japan had kicking around. Couldnt turn it down at the price he offered me!!

DSC_0096_zpsbyi05ypt.jpg

DSC_0095_zpswouf0udh.jpg

DSC_0099_zps2va5kims.jpg

DSC_0097_zps4jcomtcw.jpg

Some port and polish work on the VVL head. Ive actually much further ahead than this point as its almost read to go, but it does give some idea.

DSC_0072_zpsgusxoegv.jpg

DSC_0073_zpsqwocwf2l.jpg

12974265_1109345062471472_62307914200245

For this car the turbo has to be pretty crisp and responsive, but still give enough up to. Its a pretty hard stretch. We will be racing the car in various forms of motorsport, so having all top end is not really beneficial except for time attack. The turbo we are doing in house and is really a bitsa, and a little experimental.

DSC_0178_zps69mrrofv.jpg

13417638_1151306601608651_14366503631459

  • Like 2

Looks cool man, however very very suprised you are sticking with a T25 housing....?

Really thought you would of ran a GT30 T3 series turbo.....I doubt a T25 will bring out the goodness in the VE head especially when it has massive N/A ports...

What's the transmission it runs?

And what about block preps? - or are you going billet goodness?

Hi mate,

We are doing a few trick things to an OEM based block, although not an original/standard road block. Preferably wont be posting too much info for what we are doing in the way of preps, but it will be strong enough. Dry sump of course.

Looks cool man, however very very suprised you are sticking with a T25 housing....?

Really thought you would of ran a GT30 T3 series turbo.....I doubt a T25 will bring out the goodness in the VE head especially when it has massive N/A ports...

Hi mate,

We chose to steer away from most of Garretts range because of the dependency to generate HP through high high pressure ratio's up near the 30+PSI range. Garret just didn't suit our application which is quite unique.

There are a few factors we have to target with this car:

  • Reliability and efficiency across a wide powerband for endurance racing.
  • Most likely a restrictor fitted for GT or other category events.
  • Fuel economy and temperature reduction.
  • Super crisp response/torque for door to door racing.

When planning the engine it was always a goal for 550-600HP, and we could have done this through low comp/high boost and moderate camshafts. The problem with this is that your top end can really struggle up top for engine balance and also need plenty of fuel to offset the temps up high rpm to keep the power coming. Using the VE cylinder for us wasnt job for flow numbers, but the fact we can flow the same amount of air for lower temp and pressure, and much greater economy and better timing control for reduced temps. Although that housing looks small (its from an IHI) we have actually managed to fit a 60 odd mm turbine blade in there and squeezed plenty more flow with some multi axis milling. The choice for a more compact housing was to offset the large camshafts so we could still have some response down low and juggle the flow up top. The computer says we can get 700CFM with this setup through the turbo - time will tell how well it applies.

So for us the goodness of a VE head doesn't just come from flow numbers and peak HP. We want a giant fat power band, that even under light load and part throttle delivers bucket loads of torque. This is something a DET head cannot do.

Edited by DMM

Do you mind if I ask how you found that chassis for sale and a ball park on what it cost?

This is going to be awesome :D

Ive been chasing it for a long time. Always used to watch racing back in high school.

Vehicle was advertised for 130k EURO.

Wow, that's near on 200k AUD

Do you think you could have built a comparable chassis for less or was there an element of nostalgia in this?

That aside, it looks amazing and I wish more people built Silvia's as grip cars.

My little cheapo s13 punches well above its above its weight for the power and tyres.

This will be a monster :D

Edited by ActionDan
Started ripping into things in the last 24hours. Pulled arms out for the sphericals that need attention. Mocked up engine to fabricate engine mounts soon also. Just going over everything to make a general list of whats needed to be done. Shocks i am going to pull out and rebuild/revalve as they are currently setup for something crazy like 1350lbs on the front springs.


DSC_0208_zpstbqu88do.jpg

DSC_0216_zpsbivqafxq.jpg

DSC_0215_zpsqnvw7vwz.jpg

DSC_0213_zpswxrhkbxc.jpg

DSC_0212_zpsgygbiin9.jpg
  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...