Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Less chat more boost!!

hahaha, yeah. I will do that after I upgrade headbolts.

Yeah it will make a difference, it's called more lag with longer duration cams :)

Is that actually always true? Wouldn't longer duration exhaust cam let out more exhaust flow to spool the turbo faster? Or would having more duration intake and more duration exhaust just equal out and have me where I currently sit as far as lag is concerned?

Yes, always true.

Your essentially shifting the motor's efficiency to the right.

Whoever recommended you longer duration cams for response should go read a few text books and educate themselves (saying that very nicely).

You want some more response, I suggest going to a twin scroll setup, ie divided housing, proper twin scroll manifold, twin gates.

Yes, always true.

Your essentially shifting the motor's efficiency to the right.

Whoever recommended you longer duration cams for response should go read a few text books and educate themselves (saying that very nicely).

You want some more response, I suggest going to a twin scroll setup, ie divided housing, proper twin scroll manifold, twin gates.

No one recommended me longer duration for response. I bought the cams before going single turbo. So I have them to put in still. Looks like I'll be looking for a twin scroll setup in the future...or stroker kit lol

No one recommended me longer duration for response. I bought the cams before going single turbo. So I have them to put in still. Looks like I'll be looking for a twin scroll setup in the future...or stroker kit lol

Put the cams in and boost it. Get that face stretch going.

I saw your dyno.

I'm on Tomei Poncam A's with the 260 duration intake and 252 duration exhaust on a stroker motor with divided exhaust housing on BW 8374 EFR IWG .92 housing and I am seeing full boost in 4th gear around 3600 rpms, but full boost in 3rd right at 4k. I'm spinning to 8k rpms and 17 psi is 464 whp and 371 ft-lbs toqrue.If you look at Tomei's website about their stroker kit, my horsepower numbers follow their dyno almost exactly with a 20% addition in power (converting to flywheel from wheel HP). If you notice, there appears to be about a 400 rpm shift to the left from going to a stroker with a bit more top end due to increased displacement.

I'd say your numbers are on target to be honest. We both need to apply more boost and/or move to E85 (which will definitely be my next step - give me a couple of months). I'm still trying for 500 whp on pump gas which should be possible up around 19-20 psi and I would bet it would hit 400 wtq there as well.

Also it should be noted that if I were to go for total streetable HP ON 93 PUMPGAS on a RB26 with stock cams, I would go smaller than 62mm turbo chargers - I would pick something in the high 50mm...like BW 7670 or in your case 5862. These will all have a better powerband and will make the car more usable on the street if less than 20 psi boost. The 7670 would be insanely fast and responsive. I was going to go there, but when the stroker decision was made, i scrapped it for 8374. Again, you'll be limited to 8k or less rpms and likely 20 psi or less, but you'll have better powerband for sure.

I have attached my graph, I'd like to compare the two if you have a printout of yours (or could put it in the attached excel spreadsheet).

 

dyno converted.JPG

dyno converted.xlsx

Tomei stroker information.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...