Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So yeah I ended up with this pretty decent R33. after swapping it for my BMW. Had it nearly a year now and naturally I am bored shitless so I want to waste time and money;


Here's the list of mods when I got it, since then the only mods I've done are bulk skids

Modifications are:

-Genuine Garrett 3071 Turbo with braided lines and aluminium intake pipe.
-Vi-Pec Engine Management System, tuned by ESP in Queanbeyan
-Front-mount Intercooler
-Upgraded 040 fuel pump
-Upgraded 700cc (approx) injectors
-Split-fire coil packs
-Heavy duty clutch
-Full X-Force exhaust system
-Biggest pod filter you have ever seenn
-Re-shimmed and serviced LSD Diff
-Whiteline swaybars front and rear with new knuckles
-DBA slotted brake rotors, braided lines and Project-Mu Pads

Tuned to 273 rwkw - I think 400 rwkw sounds more appropriate. 

Some options I have though about;
1- put rb26 running gear in it make it 4wd and boost it some more
2- punish the Rb25 so hard it pops, then repeat that several times at maximum power
3- be cool and put a LS1 in it and twin turbo that
4- sell it and get a GTR (- I'd like one but I need the 4 door now plus the wife think its cool and my son likes it too).

IMG_6358_zps848a6280.jpg

 

20150823_162341_zpsbldxdrnq.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465742-making-the-r33-jizzmatronic/
Share on other sites

A stock unopened 25 will take 350rwkw without too much fuss. Head studs are probably a good idea. My own setup went from 260 to 312 from 98 to e85. I would think yours should make around the 320 mark. Cams typically won't be required but will give top end gains.

I'd get the GTX 3076, the 3071 is probably not gunna make much more power than what you already have. And just get the maximum sized injectors [do it once].  There is a thread here somewhere telling everyone that they idle and work just fine these days.  And the cost is about the same, so why not. but Glenn knows his stuff so talk to him about it.

Yep get bigger more modern injectors and a bigger more modern turbo and if your intercooler and exhaust system (3.5 in) are up to it you should have heaps of power. If the engine lets go (no reason why it should) put an RB30 block under your head for heaps of street friendly torque. If you want four door four wheel drive get a GTS4 and repower it.

Get GTX3576 with a divided rear housing, and a proper twin scroll manifold.. put in some headstuds and screw about 2 bar into it.. should see close to 400kw+ on E85

Your injectors are too small too and you need a new fuel pump.

Thanks Lads. Good inputs. Seems the obvious path forward is to setup on E85 and leave majority of hardware as is and I'm pretty sure the vipec can handle a flex sensor. Then max it all out and decide from there.

Might even give tuning it myself a red hot crack. A lumpy idle would be level 7 jizmatronic 

boost in the snow this morning was beyond luscious. Wheel spin through 3rd and hectic popping of the limiter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...