Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello fellow SAU'ers,

After a bit of advice on my R34 GTT that had just overheated last Thursday suddenly, to the point of the H-line on the water temp (I panicked so bad) and what my first course of safe action should be?

Problem: overheating according to high water temp and oil temp at half way on stock gauges

Observation: overflow tank full (but dirty), no coolant in radiator which I checked tonight as I've not been driving it since, water pump and thermo replaced at 110k, I am the second owner now at 170k - I have the original service papers to back this up. No visible leaks, although after hours of driving on Thursday, noticed leaks when coming home, I was stuck for time but at a quick glance have not noticed any cracked or burst hoses and thought this may have just been the overflow kicking in.

Action: I have a new Nissan thermostat to go in, was initially going to remove my rad, take it to Natrad for flushing/cleaning, bleeding the system (myself) with distilled water and whatnot at the same time and replacing the thermostat (myself) also.

Would this be a safe route to take before just handing over the whole car to NatRad and them slugging me $600 when I could have just fixed, eliminated or even alleviated some of my problems?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466314-gtt-overheating-recovery-steps/
Share on other sites

I boiled mine couple of weeks ago at the track, turned out to be a leaking water temp gauge sensor mount that spat out just enough coolant for the system to start running dry.

Here were some of the theories thrown around originally: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463353-post-track-day-qs-rotor-wear-gearbox-oil-ps-pump-manifold-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=7762451

If you're not in a rush you could try bleeding the system thoroughly yourself and carefully checking for leaks before taking it in?

Overflow bottle full and no visible water in radiator. Try a new radiator cap as a quick fix and hope remedy. It sounds like the cap is letting the coolant go to the o/f and then engine is getting too hot. good luck and hope it's a simple fix.

On 15 August 2016 at 10:55 PM, admS15 said:

Overflow bottle full and no visible water in radiator. Try a new radiator cap as a quick fix and hope remedy. It sounds like the cap is letting the coolant go to the o/f and then engine is getting too hot. good luck and hope it's a simple fix.

Will try this and report back - mates are saying it could even be a head gasket? Seriously?

Defintely still running fine, no white smoke etc. possibility?

Will try this and report back - mates are saying it could even be a head gasket? Seriously?

Defintely still running fine, no white smoke etc. possibility?


It can be a Hg but you would want to investigate all other possibilities first as Hg is a pita to replace. Try the cap and let us know. Fingers crossed for you mate.

My NEO motor in a manual stagea was overheating also. It turned out to be a small leak in the plastic end tanks of the stock rad. Was only enough to lower the system pressure and then the coolant would boil at the turbo and the car would then overheat. Check that your hoses are hard with pressure when it overheats. If they are not, then you have a small leak somewhere. I replaced the rad cap and thermostat before i found the leak and it did nothing. A full aluminum rad from just jap or ebay is an easy job you can do at home if that is your problem. By the way, when looking for coolant leaks, you may not see any fluid, only the white residue of the boiled dry coolant. Look for that instead of liquid coolant. Hope its not your head gasket, you can test for CO2 in your coolant with a tester from repco. Or if its bad enough, you will have bubbles coming to the surface with rad cap off and car idleing. You may also have oil in your coolant or froth in your oil. Look for that. Good luck.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Rad is absolutely cactus.

Not having much luck finding an aftermarket replacement for auto, that fits the stock shroud, and has the two oil cooler nubs for the auto box.

5 hours ago, MrStabby said:

Cactus as in blocked? You could try having it cleaned (repaired?) by a pro. They should be able to tell you how well it comes up after.

As in full of little dents and creases, full of dirt and bugs and there's a huge black area like it's burnt out.

Ive got a JJR OEM style replacement on the way I'll fit tomorrow and report back.

Alright gents, new JJR OEM rad, replaced thermostat & rap cap, full coolant flush, replace and system bleed has rectified my overheating problems (so far, need some warmer weather to really trial this).

 

hopefully this will help anyone else with this problem and not to immediately jump to a head gasket conclusion

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...