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Mmm lobster...

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I got the solid rack bushes second hand (unused) Josh...For the life of me cant remember the brand. was BMK or BMR or something like that, They had a website because I checked it out when I bought these but google isnt coming up with anything.

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Started relocating the battery in the boot to make way for some custom tanks.

Ran the cable under the car along with the fuel/brake lines safely out of the way inside some split lock conduit, Comes up into the boot through a cable gland.

cable under car.jpg

cable under car2.jpg

Mounted the battery isolation switch here. (need to get some shorter bolts)

isolator.jpg

Made up a battery mount for my Odyssey Battery (have allowed for some 3mm closed cell foam to fill in the gaps around the battery and under it)

batterymount.jpg

Thats where im up to so far, Battery will be mounted here. Just need to secure that, terminate the cables and she will be good to go.

Battery in boot.jpg

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Cheers Josh... There are billet ones available for a decent price, But this only cost me abit of time and I made it so Im happy.

Finished the battery in boot conversion:

battery fitted.jpg

I used one of these power distribution posts from Jaycar:

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Fitted it just off to the side of the fuse box (circled red) ran the cable from the battery to there then just connected all the cables that used to run to the battery to that (not 100% happy with it, cables look a little messy so might have to remake the cables from scratch. Just put a rubber grommet and vac cap over it for now... will look for a better cover tho. Heaps of room for me to make a custom overflow/catchcan combo now.

battery terminal.jpg

I got 3 Innovative motorsports MTX-D dual function digital gauges a little while ago... turned out side by side there was not enough space to fit them in the gap of the center console, So had to get a little creative and recess the guages and they juuuust fit. Bolts in place of the factory gauges.

Gauges.jpg

From left to right is #1 Exhaust Gas Temperature, #2 Oil temp (outer ring) Oil pressure (Digital Number) #3 Battery Volts (outer ring) Water Temp (digital number)

Gauge assembly.jpg

Was planning to paint the guage face plate black, but sorta liking the brushed alloy look for now...

gauges fitted.jpg

 

Since im using a Haltech Wide band o2 which is fitted just after where the exhausts from both turbos Merge, to fit the EGT probe I simply drilled a hole in a O2 sensor bung and welded the EGT mount in that and it bolted straight in place of where the stock o2 sensor goes on the front turbo dump pipe. Saved me from having to try remove one of the dumps which would have been a major PITA... Once I convert to single Turbo it will be places Pre-Turbo.

egtbung.jpg

The gauge mount plates are decent but made by hand so measurements are off half a mm here and there and the Chamfer was done by hand so certainly isnt spot on. But was good for a prototype to make sure it all fits up and works properly. So I made some CAD drawings ill send off to be Laser cut in the new year :)

Mountplate.jpg

Faceplate.jpg

 

Hmm what to do next...

 

 

Went for abit of a day trip yesterday, Nice 300km+ round trip to Gordan dam which had some excellent twisty roads through the mountains, Was abit cautious on the way out with the roads being very wet but on the way back they had dried up enough to instill enough confidence to have some real fun :)

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Ive been here on holidays (last Nov). Windiest road to no-where ive ever taken. Also i think i saw your car at Salamnca place in Hobart. I was so excited i took like 20 photos of your car in the car park. My wife just shook her head...


Tiny update... Got bored the other day and dont use my lathe as much as I would like to so looked for a little project to mess about with and came up with this:

Custom Lighter.jpg

Matches nicely with the Gauge surround being bare alloy for now too..

Custom Lighter fitted.jpg

I don't actually use a cigarette lighter so thinking of stripping the guts out of a USB charger and putting it inside this so I can actually use it.

Also picked up these from ebay, not bad for the price... Thinking of welding on some bits to the side just to make them look abit more beefy, do the job fine tho.

Rad mounts.jpg

And here is a pic of the engine bay just because I dont think Ive posted one before... mainly as its the worst part of the car, But I dont want to paint it until Im happy with the mods (single turbo etc) that way I dont have to stress about paint too much while working on it. engine bay.jpg

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
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