Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mmm lobster...

246380907_c867e08f8a_z.jpg

 

I got the solid rack bushes second hand (unused) Josh...For the life of me cant remember the brand. was BMK or BMR or something like that, They had a website because I checked it out when I bought these but google isnt coming up with anything.

  • Like 1

Started relocating the battery in the boot to make way for some custom tanks.

Ran the cable under the car along with the fuel/brake lines safely out of the way inside some split lock conduit, Comes up into the boot through a cable gland.

cable under car.jpg

cable under car2.jpg

Mounted the battery isolation switch here. (need to get some shorter bolts)

isolator.jpg

Made up a battery mount for my Odyssey Battery (have allowed for some 3mm closed cell foam to fill in the gaps around the battery and under it)

batterymount.jpg

Thats where im up to so far, Battery will be mounted here. Just need to secure that, terminate the cables and she will be good to go.

Battery in boot.jpg

  • Like 2

Cheers Josh... There are billet ones available for a decent price, But this only cost me abit of time and I made it so Im happy.

Finished the battery in boot conversion:

battery fitted.jpg

I used one of these power distribution posts from Jaycar:

single-m10-power-distribution-postImageMain-515.jpg

Fitted it just off to the side of the fuse box (circled red) ran the cable from the battery to there then just connected all the cables that used to run to the battery to that (not 100% happy with it, cables look a little messy so might have to remake the cables from scratch. Just put a rubber grommet and vac cap over it for now... will look for a better cover tho. Heaps of room for me to make a custom overflow/catchcan combo now.

battery terminal.jpg

I got 3 Innovative motorsports MTX-D dual function digital gauges a little while ago... turned out side by side there was not enough space to fit them in the gap of the center console, So had to get a little creative and recess the guages and they juuuust fit. Bolts in place of the factory gauges.

Gauges.jpg

From left to right is #1 Exhaust Gas Temperature, #2 Oil temp (outer ring) Oil pressure (Digital Number) #3 Battery Volts (outer ring) Water Temp (digital number)

Gauge assembly.jpg

Was planning to paint the guage face plate black, but sorta liking the brushed alloy look for now...

gauges fitted.jpg

 

Since im using a Haltech Wide band o2 which is fitted just after where the exhausts from both turbos Merge, to fit the EGT probe I simply drilled a hole in a O2 sensor bung and welded the EGT mount in that and it bolted straight in place of where the stock o2 sensor goes on the front turbo dump pipe. Saved me from having to try remove one of the dumps which would have been a major PITA... Once I convert to single Turbo it will be places Pre-Turbo.

egtbung.jpg

The gauge mount plates are decent but made by hand so measurements are off half a mm here and there and the Chamfer was done by hand so certainly isnt spot on. But was good for a prototype to make sure it all fits up and works properly. So I made some CAD drawings ill send off to be Laser cut in the new year :)

Mountplate.jpg

Faceplate.jpg

 

Hmm what to do next...

 

 

Went for abit of a day trip yesterday, Nice 300km+ round trip to Gordan dam which had some excellent twisty roads through the mountains, Was abit cautious on the way out with the roads being very wet but on the way back they had dried up enough to instill enough confidence to have some real fun :)

gordanrd.jpg

dsc_0146.jpg

fr_1908.jpg

  • Like 3

Ive been here on holidays (last Nov). Windiest road to no-where ive ever taken. Also i think i saw your car at Salamnca place in Hobart. I was so excited i took like 20 photos of your car in the car park. My wife just shook her head...


Tiny update... Got bored the other day and dont use my lathe as much as I would like to so looked for a little project to mess about with and came up with this:

Custom Lighter.jpg

Matches nicely with the Gauge surround being bare alloy for now too..

Custom Lighter fitted.jpg

I don't actually use a cigarette lighter so thinking of stripping the guts out of a USB charger and putting it inside this so I can actually use it.

Also picked up these from ebay, not bad for the price... Thinking of welding on some bits to the side just to make them look abit more beefy, do the job fine tho.

Rad mounts.jpg

And here is a pic of the engine bay just because I dont think Ive posted one before... mainly as its the worst part of the car, But I dont want to paint it until Im happy with the mods (single turbo etc) that way I dont have to stress about paint too much while working on it. engine bay.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...