Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've recently fitted some RC 720cc Injectors and had to do a bit of a re-map on my RB20det. So far things are fine at WOT as per normal. However the idle hunts a bit, but too be expected with 720 low impedance injectors. I have Nistune by the way.

However when adjusting the injector latency I began to think about what the correct latency should be and if there is horsepower (kilowatts for you guys) and reliability (Knock resistance) by having the fuel spray early (which may result in pooling at valve) or late (which could be incomplete burn/ reduced atomization). But when is the factory injection time @ 14v and rated injector impedance?

Perhaps I am getting to far into this? Is there power to be made?

Edited by rx-line
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466879-injector-latency-power-gains/
Share on other sites

The latency difference is microseconds.  Going to have precisely 3/10 of f**k all effect on any of the factors you ask about except for the simple one of how much total fuel is being injected.  And obviously enough, at high pulsewidths it has even less effect and therefore even less likelihood of affecting total power or economy.

Nope, if you pool or don't pool the fuel at the valve it's not going to make a difference.. as the air/fuel will be drawn down when required as a whole when the valve opens for the intake stroke and the piston "vacs" out the air/fuel then the valve shuts. That mixture is set now with the proportion of fuel you've commanded... Then once it's ready to boogie, the spark will ignite with the flame front starting closer to the spark plug side then extending down to build pressure thus the bang.

Either way you're not going to make more power. Power comes from ignition timing and mixtures (of course other shit too like fuel octane, air density, air temperature ra ra ra).

Pooled fuel is bad mang!!!

Needs to stay in suspension, fuel pooling can show as an engine being stupid rich but still detonating like it is lean.

Ideally you would pulse the injector just as the valve is passing 1mm of lift so their is airflow past the valve.

 

 

13 hours ago, zebra said:

Pooled fuel is bad mang!!!

Needs to stay in suspension, fuel pooling can show as an engine being stupid rich but still detonating like it is lean.

Ideally you would pulse the injector just as the valve is passing 1mm of lift so their is airflow past the valve.

 

 

 

This was my thought, just as the fuel/air entry was almost at the valve, the valve should be opening.  So far injection timing is only related to detonation and not power?

For these RC injectors I was told to get them to the point where they were spraying a little early for best idle. 

However in say an ECU with tunability like nistune, would setting my latency to match my injectors (Suggested Latency) be optimal? I.e. Spraying "the injector just as the valve is passing 1mm of lift so their is airflow past the valve." Does Nissan do this from factory? Assuming everything is in check.

Dude,

As I said above, latency is measured in microseconds.  The difference between one injector and another injector is a few micro seconds (alright, a few hundred microseconds).  Adjusting latency is not a tuning tool for setting the start/end timing of the injection event.  it is just a tool for making sure that the delay in the injector opening is accounted for when calculating the total injector opening time.  A Nistune ECU does not offer you the ability to set either the start or end time of the injection event.  it happens on the schedule decided upon by Nissan when they designed the ECU.  If you want to play with the actual injection end point (which is what you really want if you're aiming to time it in some specific relation to valve opening or to try to avoid whatever fuel pooling scenarios are running through your nightmares) then you need an aftermarket ECU that gives you that knob to turn.

With respect to trying to tune the injection end point and/or minimise any fuel pooling, keep in mind though that unless you injectors are quite a lot larger than you need, you only have ~16ms to get your injection even done at the top end of the rev range and your injectors are therefore open for a very significant fraction of the total time available, thereby negating most of the perceived benefits of careful event timing.  Careful event timing is really good for optimising cruise and mid rev range performance.

  • Like 2

The only time I would be touching the injector opening time in relation to crank angle would be if you are spraying far away from the intake ports.

For example using long ass velocity stacks where the fuel will require a little bit of a head start to meet the valve at correct opening time as fuel has mass and can delay in those situations especially at idle and small throttle inputs where pulse widths are very short.

The fuel really does need to get in at the right time which can effect idle quality,but on an RB the intake manifold is literally right in front of the valve I really wouldn't bother even prime pulse injection enrichment be turned off with no ill-effects as Crank injection will occur instantly anyway on cold starts so really there's no need for it it's a very short path on an RB.

If you're just worried about idle quality try adding a few degrees of timing and a bit more fuel at 0 throttle tables.

  • Like 1
22 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Dude,

As I said above, latency is measured in microseconds.  The difference between one injector and another injector is a few micro seconds (alright, a few hundred microseconds).  Adjusting latency is not a tuning tool for setting the start/end timing of the injection event.  it is just a tool for making sure that the delay in the injector opening is accounted for when calculating the total injector opening time.  A Nistune ECU does not offer you the ability to set either the start or end time of the injection event.  it happens on the schedule decided upon by Nissan when they designed the ECU.  If you want to play with the actual injection end point (which is what you really want if you're aiming to time it in some specific relation to valve opening or to try to avoid whatever fuel pooling scenarios are running through your nightmares) then you need an aftermarket ECU that gives you that knob to turn.

With respect to trying to tune the injection end point and/or minimise any fuel pooling, keep in mind though that unless you injectors are quite a lot larger than you need, you only have ~16ms to get your injection even done at the top end of the rev range and your injectors are therefore open for a very significant fraction of the total time available, thereby negating most of the perceived benefits of careful event timing.  Careful event timing is really good for optimising cruise and mid rev range performance.

Missed your first post. I had questioned this myself, but proceeded to assuming latency had more of an effect on injection timing.

  • 2 weeks later...

What do you mean by leave the other stuff alone??

Are you going from one brand of 1000s to the xspurts 1000s?

If so the tune will need to be checked as different brand injectors have different characteristics at different millisecond opening times hence the term injector characterization so one injector at 10 milliseconds may flow more fuel than the same size injector of another brand this needs to be rectified.


https://goo.gl/images/vrr7E6

For what it's worth I can tune, have my own dyno, yet I'm currently building an rb2530neo and when it's finished I'll be installing the engine at home then paying to have it.towed to my work for the first time it fires up. I could very easily drive it into work and adjust a few settings as I go however an hours drive on a fresh engine with an ecu that isn't tuned for it is a bad idea. If it's at your tuners they can have the wideband in, fire it up and adjust settings to have it running optimal in no time and have the motor bed in properly. Where as we could tell you how to adjust settings, not be able to confirm it's right. Have you run to rich or to lean for an hours cruise at stable rpm to a tuner and almost garrenty you will glaze the bore from the Rings not bedding right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...