Jump to content
SAU Community

Need New Brake Pads and Possibly Discs

MatthewT85
 Share

Recommended Posts

MatthewT85 Proficient

MatthewT85

Posted
Posted
Need New Brake Pads and Possibly Discs

Hi Guys,

So looks like my brake pads are cooked, left side has hit the indicator and is squeeling like crazy.  They were Bendix Ultimates.... Was recommended years ago but Im not getting them again...

Anyway I have been looking into the brake pad thread and it looks like the Intima SR's are the go for me.

My main issue is with the discs, I think they need to be replaced as well, will measure soon.

What I have narrowed it down to are DBA rotors.

Now Ive seen DBA 4963s for fronts and DBA 4908s for rears.

But as I was reading more, esp a more recent thread which said slotted rotors arent necessary.

So question to go Slotted or not, through brakes direct it looks like the difference in total would be 118.40

and would these pads and rotors be a good choice, if not open to recommendations

.... just realised mainly daily, with maybe odd track day, but not hardcore lap times

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

The pads you suggest will be fine. I'm running them myself. Very good on the street. I will be track testing them on Saturday. Since your mainly daily driving with occasional track use, you can even go with the cheaper rda plain rotors or if your current rotors aren't under size you can reuse those and have them skimmed If needed. My 2c. Cheers.

To answer the question on slots, they don't really do too much but do look pretty cool. So really its more a question if you're willing to spend some extra $ for the look factor. I personally run plain on the front and slotted on the rear only because I got them dirt cheap.


Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

wallah!

however man, no idea how Brakes Direct are selling rotors at those prices!?!?!??!! it's like they're making $5~10 .. I just sent Matt a price list and then look at Brakes Direct thinking "yeah I'm cheaper for schizzle" then was shocked... they might have some kind of volume agreement

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

I've been running DBA T3 Club Specs for a while, happy with them. You can probably get by without the slots and save some coin, but have a compare of the internal cooling structure of your options, I'd say it's more important than the surface.

I too have just put in fresh Intima SR's, they bite nicely on the street. Only issue is pretty good squeal at a particular brake pressure, hopefully beating them a bit at Sandown will fix it :) soon

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I find the Intima SR squealed a little with the 296mm R33 disc - but no where as much as Project MU HC+ or those god awful QFM pads, however on the 324mm Brembo discs/calipers they don't squeal.. It might be the size/dimension that provides the right mix to create the squeal and amplify it.

However going to the Type-D it's virtually silent for street use (as they don't bite when cold LOLOLOL) but on the track once they hit the right temperature they squeal a bit.

Missileman Veteran

Missileman

Posted
Posted
18 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

SRs on my R32 on 33 rotors are quiet as.  Seem like a very decent street pad - not that I ever give my brakes enough load to really find out.

What's the dust like? loved my remsa's except for the mess they made of the rims, put my 3/4 used stock Nissan pads on while I reconditioned some 33 calipers, holy shit when I first tried to stop with them.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I have black wheels, so dust is not something that catches my attention.  Having said that, they are certainly more dusty than both the stock pads and Bendix Ultimates.  I wouldn't say they were as anywhere near as obscenely dusty as the pads that people complain about though.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

If memory serves me right, they're a little less dustier than the QFM A1RM however will cop more abuse and not fade as quickly... and also much quieter!

I haven't used Remsa so can't compare... if this helps, they're less dustier than Project MU HC800 / HC+

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted
What's the dust like? loved my remsa's except for the mess they made of the rims, put my 3/4 used stock Nissan pads on while I reconditioned some 33 calipers, holy shit when I first tried to stop with them.

SR's are heaps less dusty than the Remsas, they were ridiculous! In normal street driving the SRs are completely fine and I have white wheels..
Missileman Veteran

Missileman

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, V28VX37 said:


SR's are heaps less dusty than the Remsas, they were ridiculous! In normal street driving the SRs are completely fine and I have white wheels..

Cheers for that, I'll put the SRs on my short list, I almost bought some Project MU NSs from RHD last night, as they have them for a decent price t the moment.

MatthewT85 Proficient

MatthewT85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I did have a chat to Dose Pipe and he helped me where he could which was awesome, so will wait till the pads arrive. I'm still waiting for a quote on RDA's before I decide RDA or DBA...

Then I'll prob get a mechanic to do the install and touch up the tune at the same time, and report back on how it all goes

admS15 Grand Master

admS15

Posted
Posted

Ok. So just did the sandown track day yesterday and gave the sr's a good pounding. Sandown is very taxing on the brakes so perfect for reviewing the performance of these pads.

The car is a R33 gtst, stock sumitomo calipers, plain rda 324mm rotors with adaptors up front and rda slotted/drilled standard sized rears with sr pads all round, penrite 10 tenths fluid and stock brake lines. Small 35mm agi pipe ducts run from front bar to back of discs on front.

Completed 43 laps during the day. 30 of those in anger as it was wet in the morning. Every session was run flat out, no cool down laps.

The intima Sr get a big thumbs up from me. No fade at all, after they get hot, you do have to apply a little more pressure to the pedal but they still stop fantastic. As the day progressed I got more and more confident with the braking and the sr just kept doing the job. They squeeled a few times when real hot and that's about the only bad thing I can say. They didn't wear much either and the amount of brake dust that came off them wasn't much at all considering what they had just been through. They did get a real good workout and the car was going quick, managed to break into the 1. 25's which is pretty damn good for a stock brake system.

On the road for daily driving they are also fantastic. Quiet, low dust, almost squeel free. Only heard a slight squeel once or twice. Overall, great Street pad that can definitely handle track abuse as well.

Would definitely recommend to anyone looking for a pad that is good for the street, reasonably priced and can handle track duties.



  • Like 2
MatthewT85 Proficient

MatthewT85

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thats good to hear!, looks like the bigger disc/cooling ducts are making a big diff,

Yeah I had my Brakes go dead after 3 laps at Symmons. Im not chasing lap times, but just want something reliable.

Do you guys think its worth swapping to braided lines as im redoing pads and discs?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...