Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Help Required Please

I now have my Lovely M35 AR-X VQ25DET  and I've had fitted my hand controls and wheelchair hoist so I can get around.

Replaced the Nissan Rims with 18X8 rims with Yokohama tyres and TPMS fitted, its great to drive.

Now, what mod should I do first, Brakes , Suspension  or something else?

So if your going to suggest something I would like to know why that brand and the sizes.

Also my M35 is equal to which Skyline model as so far three people have told me 3 different models?

All advice gratefully received if not acted on.

 

 

Edited by WHOP
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467520-help-required-please/
Share on other sites

Hi Martin,

Welcome to the M35 scene, Great car to drive isn't it.

 

The NM35 Stagea is not really equivalent to anything, as the VQ25DET engine was only for the Stagea.

No other car ever had it.

The equivalent in terms of date of manufacture is the V35 Skyline which has many interchangeable parts.

The 350Z too.

 

If yours is completely stock, exhaust is usually the first stop.

Once you fit a free flowing dump pipe and 3 inch exhaust, you'll be blown away by the difference :)

Or if you wanna keep it quiet, just do the dump ( Scotty here makes them or you can get Dolphin from Japan )

Best exhaust seems to be the Fujitsubo Legalis R is terms of flow and tone.

Next thing for me was brakes as stock are ridiculous for a car almost 1700kg.

You can get used R34 GT-T slightly modified to fit, or get V35, 350Z Brembos straight bolt on. (Track edition brakes )

I went Brembos wand kept stock master cylinder, feels like a small car to drive now, even towing heavy loads.

You'll need to check your rims fit over though and your spare !!

 

Don't go too hard with your suspension as these are common to tear and crack in the sub-frames and shock mounts.

Remember, heavy car, you can't shovel it like an R32 for long.

 

Nismo S-tune suspension lowers the car 25mm and gives it a sport feel, 20% stiffer than stock.

Not sure if it came for AR-X, otherwise BC's are heaps popular..

 

Edited by conan7772
more info

An other small mod is the fuel pump.

I noticed better response immediately with the Walbro 255 lph

If you run a constant power source to this pump, the stock 370cc injectors will be good for around 410cc ..( but that's 100% duty cycle ).

You can't use the variable voltage power source for this pump, like the factory set up. Gotta run one off the battery.

Someone here mentioned if you fit a straight through 3 inch exhaust, without any fuel support, you might be running lean as the stock ECU will run out of scope.

Hence possible piston damage- just something to consider.

This was attained from compression testing several cars with aftermarket exhausts..

So in a nutshell-

stage 1 - exhaust and fuel pump, brakes, suspension

stage 2- exhaust, fuel pump, highflow turbo, better BOV , brakes, suspension

stage 3- exhaust, fuel pump, highflow turbo, better BOV, injectors, Piggyback ECU, intercooler, aftermarket intake, brakes, suspension

Have fun..

 

If I was to start from stock again the first mod I would do would be a wideband and boost gauge.

Can highly recommend Innovate Motorsports SCG-1, all in one AFR, boost control/gauge, shift light with logging.

A bit of insurance and you can keep track of what the different mods do.

Next would be getting rid of the "boat like" suspension and bigger front brakes before you start any power mods.

Welcome and enjoy!

 

  • Like 1
21 hours ago, WHOP said:

Help Required Please

I now have my Lovely M35 AR-X VQ25DET  and I've had fitted my hand controls and wheelchair hoist so I can get around.

Replaced the Nissan Rims with 18X8 rims with Yokohama tyres and TPMS fitted, its great to drive.

Now, what mod should I do first, Brakes , Suspension  or something else?

So if your going to suggest something I would like to know why that brand and the sizes.

Also my M35 is equal to which Skyline model as so far three people have told me 3 different models?

All advice gratefully received if not acted on.

 

 

 

Having read all your comments and I thank you all for them.

Yes, I am really enjoying driving again for the first time in 20 years, all my previous cars were just a means of getting from A to B with my wheelchair.

Driving this is such a pleasure it makes my smile just sitting in it. As my carer travels with me and also drives it and I have to keep her safe, safety is the most important thing.

I don't know enough about engines, etc. to put in  Innovate Motorsports SCG-1 what ever that is nor do I know what it does (Sorry datmoo).

So it seems to me that as I'm in a wheelchair and very limited knowledge of mechanic's I should start with something I do understand. 

I'll get the brakes upgraded first then the exhaust,

I'm not sure about lowering the car at present because at its present height I can transfer easily form my wheelchair.

Please don't forget I'm in England so suggesting parts that are only available in Oz and really not helpful but thank you anyway.

or theoretically. 07 350z NON brembo brakes will fit front and rear giving you a 320mm twin piston front and a 308mm single piston rear with the ability to run a 17" space saver spare wheel still 

 

Stripey,

Thank you but I think 295mm Brakes all round will give me a better result as I can get  four piston ones  to fit easily.

My AR-X runs on 18 inch wheels with an 18 inch spare and putting different sized brakes on her seems wrong some how, don't you agree?

 

 

Edited by WHOP

iamhe77,

             Could you please explain why as an M35 owner you suggest your choices of a transmission cooler and cooling system mod first?

I can just about understand the transmission cooler but what cooling mods would you suggest?

By the way, I have to have an automatic gearbox due to my disabilities ( nothing works below my waist) so I have ( big toe) brain problems too.

I don't think you'll need any cooling mods unless you plan to track it or launch hard at every set of lights.

And that's if you have a high flow turbo.

I think the stock cooler will do just fine where you are.

A lot of the modified M35s here are in Adelaide and Melbourne, long hot Summers with solid full weeks in the 40's

 

17 hours ago, WHOP said:

iamhe77,

             Could you please explain why as an M35 owner you suggest your choices of a transmission cooler and cooling system mod first?

I can just about understand the transmission cooler but what cooling mods would you suggest?

By the way, I have to have an automatic gearbox due to my disabilities ( nothing works below my waist) so I have ( big toe) brain problems too.

This is the cooling mod I am referring to and is a necessary item for VQ25det and VQ35de as far as I am concerned. It helps with coolant flow throughout the engine and eliminates the hotspot (and air pocket) created by the blanking plate between the heads. Nissan actually have this line from factory on the VQ40 although it is thermostat controlled.

I always install an external transmission cooler on any car I have because using the 80-95 degree in-radiator coolant to "regulate" the lines from 100+ degrees C in the trans fluid just doesn't seem efficient to me for cooling. Cooler trans fluid temps have been shown to extend the life and lower wear on the transmission components.

It is a pretty extreme setup that cools transmission temps too much (I did manage this with a VQ25det Stagea - two external coolers, no lines to the radiator and outside air temps below 2 degrees C).

conan,

Thanks for the advice regarding mechanics and breakers but as Stagea's are still uncommon in the UK I think breakers are few and far between.

Luckily we have a very good Stagea Club Chairman in Green Machine who can get most parts and if not knows a man who can.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...