Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So in February I had my car tuned making around 280rwkw. The car drove fine maybe a little carp down low, which I thought was the vct plug needing replacing.

The car then began flashing the cel/knock light. Replaced the vct plug and took it back to get the tune looked at. I've been told the car can't handle timing above 10psi and 4 degrees of timing was taken out anywhere above 10psi.

IAT were mid to high 50. Don't know if that's an issue.

Car has

Hypergear atr43ss2

Top feed rail with 1000cc xspurt

Jjr return flow cooler

Haltec platinum pro

Any reasons why a car would be fine with the timing then after a few months hate it.

Tuner thinks the 98 down here is bad but I can't see why it would be that bad/different

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467658-car-wont-take-timing-with-out-knock/
Share on other sites

How big is your exhaust? Possibly collapsed CAT? Can you check pressure or temps pre and after intercooler?

Just saw you have a Venom cat so probably not that.

Same tuner as February?

Stao might be able to weigh in here, but I believe he was having issues with JJR Belmouth dump pupes at one stage. The flange doesnt quite match up to the gasket/turbo and you need to grind out the dump a bit to make it match.

I never had this issue but I believe that it was a problem

Do you know how much timing is actually in the MAP up were the problem area is?

Ok I don't think I had the issue as I would have noticed when I went to put the gasket on.
No I don't know how much timing is in there before after the change. I may have to see if I can find out tomorrow.

If everything was working fine for a while then it changed without notice then my bet is fuel starvation, time to check the filter, FPR, pump etc

Pump is my guess, its not delivering enough when you boost!

He did mention he took a bit of fuel out of the map as the afr was a touch rich. Would that rule out the fuel system? I didn't ask either but a pressure gauge in the fuel line would tell whether there was an issue in the fuel system wouldn't it?

When it changes from something that used to work, then it is not the fundamental architecture of the car.  If it NEVER took timing then we'd go looking at the return flow cooler, the exhaust, etc etc.  So we look to things that can change.  As has been mentioned already, cat is a possibility.  After that it's fuel system, as has also been said.  What may be happening is something unexpected like just one dirty/part blocked injector.  If you get one cylinder running a bit lean it will knock and the others won't, and the mixtures may not show up too badly because 5/6 of the engine is working right.  Those Bosch injectors may or may not have the little inlet filters in them.  They can catch crap and bock really quick.

  • Like 1
13 hours ago, MatthewT85 said:

Any reasons why a car would be fine with the timing then after a few months hate it.

Tuner thinks the 98 down here is bad but I can't see why it would be that bad/different

 

The fact the tune hadn't gone leaner would suggest it's less likely to be a fuel delivery issue which is one of the causes for this kind of thing which I've seen.  To cause THAT much sensitivity at that low boost and requested timing would need to be quite the fuelling issue, not something that would be too subtle to pick up even if it was only one cylinder - imho.

The other thing (and probably more common cause for this type of stuff) is triggering issues causing the effective timing to fly way off requested timing.   Either make sure the wiring to the CAS is good, or if you can find someone with the same type of CAS then maybe try swapping them over - or anything else you have the tech to do to rule that out.

Edited by Lithium
2 hours ago, Lithium said:

To cause THAT much sensitivity at that low boost and requested timing would need to be quite the fuelling issue, 

 

sorry does that mean it would be pretty obvious if there was a problem with fuel system and its most likely not the issue?

On 11/13/2016 at 0:35 AM, hypergear said:

I'm leaning towards to what the Afr gauge say as well.

do you mean if the afr was fine or rich then there isnt an issue with fuel system(injectors, FPR ect)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...