Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here is some onboard from a ~56s around WP in a Stohr, it's pretty intense.. at these speeds it becomes a real mind game, the car can do things your brain thinks is just not possible...  the hardest thing i have ever done is T1 at 250km/hr at PI, it was a real brain fark...

 

  • Like 2

I have been looking at radicals ect for a while now. Seems to me that it just makes sense for a track day car. Taking my 32 GTR out for track days is great but the constant worry of killing the motor is just stressful.
Video above looks great, the speeds are insane. What happened at the end of the video? Did you back off or no power?

On 2/8/2017 at 7:07 AM, LSX-438 said:

We've run a Stohr WF1 for a few years-- by far the fastest car per dollar you can drive.  54's - 56's at Wakefield, 1:25's to 1:27's at EC.  Some of the numbers earlier in thread ($3k per day?) are seriously off the money.  The car has a GSXR1000 engine which you can buy for about $3k complete.  Race prep is relatively cheap, the thing is somewhat simple really, most of the tech is in the aero.

What's the maintenance regime like on this car? My understanding is that every bolt gets the shit vibrated out of it every time you take it out so you need to be a lot more vigilant than just a standard spanner check. 

Is the engine just a standard GSXR, or does it need to built like a Radical engine? Gearbox? What's an upright worth, and how often are you replacing it?

Also, and this may be obvious, but is it fun to drive? Compared to the GTR for example?

 

On 2/8/2017 at 9:11 PM, benm said:

Sports Racer Series (per event)

$1,900 = New Tyres

$500 = Mechanic / Pit crew

$100 = fuel

$1,895 = Event entry fee

Total = $4,395

 

Is this for a National series race? Are there no state rounds? Entry fees would be significantly cheaper.  EDIT: Just checked there's the NSW Supersports category. I'd be surprised if entry fees were any more than $400-500  

Also, I thought these cars were pretty good on tyres, would you really need a new set every round?

The Event entry fee's I quoted were for the National Championships, state CAM's rounds are much cheaper.

The cars are extremely good on tyres (I buy mine second hand and usually add an additional 400-600 laps onto them without too much of an issue) however if you are travelling interstate, bringing a crew with you and competing in a National Championship you are using a new set of tyres for the weekend (some Radical guys will use a new set each day or session depending on how close they are in points). The last set of tyres I purchased were $100 for the set and instantly dropped 2sec off my WP pb, I've never driven on green rubber.

My engine is not "radical spec" and I actually suspect that I'm down on horsepower by a tiny bit (~10-20hp) however if you are not competing in the Radical State/National championships the engine doesn't need to be to spec. I did 18 events in 2016 between about 4 clubs which doesn't include any CAM's state series etc

I've replaced probably 150 bolts, I'd say half were rivets replaced with bolts and the other half were just old/original looking bolts.

The biggest reasons I went with the Radical over the Stohr / West were that I can order parts online from the UK and have them delivered 4 days later, I can go in person to the shop at Eastern Creek and buy the common parts off the shelf and it's a 2 seater so awesome for taking friends and instructors out. I couldn't do any of that with the Stohr / West and as a newbie to this particular genre of car and having zero mechanical knowledge it scared me that if something broke it could literally take months to get fixed.

16 minutes ago, benm said:

I've replaced probably 150 bolts, I'd say half were rivets replaced with bolts and the other half were just old/original looking bolts.

The biggest reasons I went with the Radical over the Stohr / West were that I can order parts online from the UK and have them delivered 4 days later, I can go in person to the shop at Eastern Creek and buy the common parts off the shelf and it's a 2 seater so awesome for taking friends and instructors out. I couldn't do any of that with the Stohr / West and as a newbie to this particular genre of car and having zero mechanical knowledge it scared me that if something broke it could literally take months to get fixed.

Thanks for the reply Ben. What year Radical SR3 are you running? Did you buy local or overseas? 

Have you had to change uprights yet? My understanding is that uprights are the costly thing to look out for considering they are lifed and are $3k a corner.

Also binning it wouldn't be fun. Replacing any of the aero would be costly, which would make me hesitant to go door to door.

 

What parts do you find you are commonly buying from OS? Cheers

 

2008 SR3 (SR3 RS come after that, then the new SR3 RSX) and I bought from Vic

Front uprights are $1,250ea delivered, rears are $1,050ea delivered.

I'm not running any parts to the hours, all purely on physical condition.

You can see the parts prices here https://www.radicalonline.co.uk/ just add them to your shopping cart and select the country then convert to AUD.

Door to door is where damage occurs whether it be in the Radical series or the Supersports series. The West / Stohr drivers don't like the Radical drivers and vice versa but that's likely due to the different cars having strengths in different areas and nobody wanting to give an inch. I'm quite happy just do do trackdays + supersprints, I don't have the cashola to start rubbing panels for a few points on a website.

Here is my best "whole session"

 

Cool thanks for that. How is the aero and coachwork looking? If I was to buy one it would be a similar vintage. Checked out some of the older models at Radical Australia's shed at SMSP and they were starting to look a bit sad. But yours is looking very clean judging from that video at least.

Had any issues with the paddleshifter? 

Mine is in decent condition, a lot of money was spent on the bodywork and engine by the previous owner however it easily could have had more spent on it.

Only issues with the paddleshifter have been from worn out electrical parts that control the blipper. Cost me about $100 to buy replacements from an electronics distributor.

The older generation (same as mine) are 10 or so years old so they will look tired, the worst on any of them will be the wiring looms.

9 hours ago, JimmyRickard said:

What's the maintenance regime like on this car? My understanding is that every bolt gets the shit vibrated out of it every time you take it out so you need to be a lot more vigilant than just a standard spanner check. 

Is the engine just a standard GSXR, or does it need to built like a Radical engine? Gearbox? What's an upright worth, and how often are you replacing it?

Also, and this may be obvious, but is it fun to drive? Compared to the GTR for example?

 

Is this for a National series race? Are there no state rounds? Entry fees would be significantly cheaper.  EDIT: Just checked there's the NSW Supersports category. I'd be surprised if entry fees were any more than $400-500  

Also, I thought these cars were pretty good on tyres, would you really need a new set every round?

Simple spanner check suffices.  We've run standard and turbo GSXR's-- the turbo setup took quite a bit of development.   We have a friends running radicals, they have their pros and cons relative to Stohrs/Wests.  You should come down to Rd1 of the NSW supersprint championship in March--- have a chat with us all, some things are better discussed in person.  

  • 1 month later...

Cannot believe I have missed this thread...!

 

As uncle Dunc said a few pages back, I went from an R33 with 255rwkw to an MX5 with 94rwkw.

only managed a 1.13.01 around wakie in the R33 (I think also as I had no idea how to drive back then) to a 1.11.8 in the Mx5. best at EC is a 1.56 on the old layout and 1.05.5 around the south cct.

its fun, there is the MX5 cup, super TT and FoSC which the car can race in. plenty of opportunities.

uses less fuel, learn more 'race craft' in it, cheaper on parts (sometimes!) and fairly reliable.

I could turbo it for $5k? make an easy 130rwkw and cut sick laps and do perms faster.

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...