Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Crank Collar Install

Hi guys, 

I'm looking to install an aftermarket oil pump, sump and head studs to try and extend the life of my standard 26 bottom end. However as my block is an 89 it needs the extended crank collar to run the aftermarket oil pump. Is it possible to pull the crank out and install the crank collar and put it back in without having to do a rebuild on the bottom end? 

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467986-crank-collar-install/
Share on other sites

Of course it's possible.  Just disassemble, clean, do the collar install, then reassemble with the same bearings in the same spots.

The only trouble with that plan is when you have it all in pieces and look at it and go....."gee, I really don't want to put it back together with the bearings in that state", or "WTF!?!?!  How did it keep running with that broken?!!?!!111onejuan!?"

Haha I can see what you're saying. Does the crank  require machining to fit the crank collar? 

I suppose the bearings are right there and aren't a great expense to change, are they as simple as just old ones put and new ones in, or is there machining required to ensure all the clearances are correct. 

13 minutes ago, arsnic_apple said:

Haha I can see what you're saying. Does the crank  require machining to fit the crank collar? 

 

Sure does. If you still want to go ahead you may as well measure everything up to see whether it is worth putting back together as is with just rings and bearings or you are looking at a complete rebuild (its 27 years old after all).

The motor has only done 100,000kms so I wouldn't think that it would be too worn. If it were only going to cost me a couple of hundred extra I'd be happy to throw some new bearings in at the same time (would it really be worth putting new rings in?). I'm just not keen on spending thousands and thousands on a full rebuild right now (forged pistons, rods etc etc). 

If it aint broke don't fix it. That goes for the oil pump upgrade too. Save the $ and if the time ever comes that a rebuild is needed, do it all properly then. Meanwhile don't rev the thing to the limiter all day long and it should last a fair while longer. It hasn't gone for 27 years because its weak.

  • Like 2

The point of doing this exercise is to prolong the life of the motor and not have to do a full rebuild. It also hasn't gone 27 years with a big single hanging off the side haha.

There's a few guys over here who have done the same mods and made big power and their motors have survived a long time with a decent beating, although they didn't have to do the crank as they had later model motors. 

I have an e85 set up that I'm about halfway through putting in at the moment and was looking to do some supporting mods so it doesn't just die.  When the time comes for a proper rebuild I'll be able to reuse the sump and oil pump anyway so isn't a loss there. 

New bearings, rings and a light hone etc will not cost the world. If that's all it needs than not so bad, if it needs more than chances are you have found an issue in time to stop the engine from having a failure. To me its a no brainer. If your pulling the engine to do the crank collar. May as well rip the head off (which hopefully you were going to do anyway to replace the studs/head gasket). By the time the heads off and the crank is out, you only have pistons and rods in the block anyway, so I say rip it apart and do the bearings and rings at a minimum.

Much easier knowing that its all fresh then thinking, everytime you drive the car 'hmmm maybe I should have changed that'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...