Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, admS15 said:

Edward Lee's is upset you killed one of his 'low km' enginesemoji22.png

Man these low km RB25s are less reliable than a VW motor. Part of me is saying a C63 AMG is more reliable lol

20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Man these low km RB25s are less reliable than a VW motor. Part of me is saying a C63 AMG is more reliable lol

Yeah nah, you need more RB in your life but I won't argue against a C63 either. Do both, lol :)

  • Like 1

Funny you say that, I own a RB25 but mainly tune SR20s lol.

Rebuild plans so far, still indecisive about a few items:

Spool rebuild kit with the CP Pistons, Spool Sump, Camtech 264 mini-brappers, Performance Springs

 

Now the indecisive items:

Spool spline oil pump gears with an N1 pump, and Spool head drain.

Also my thoughts, if I run the head drain there wouldn't real need to run oil restrictor right? or wrong?

  • Like 1

I was under the impression many people had seen the head "drain" was actually just a sump vent in effect. 

I'd do both if I had it all apart, never think about it again. 

Yeah I had a good chat to Piggaz about it, looks like I'll run the restrictors still.

Funny it seems people are against running the spline driven pump gears say there isn't enough "movement" for slight crank imperfections and could chew up the pump. sigh.....

Yeah looks like I'll get the Nitto pump, it's only a bee's dick more than the Spool spline billet gears and a N1 Oil Pump housing.

I was trying to make the motor bullet proof, and that means rev limiter abuse proof like 1JZ and 2JZ, but I've read that the poor harmonics of the RB crank itself is enough to cause the crank snout to move and exceed it's normal circular travel cause any form of spline driven pump to misalign and go chomp. "Apparently" through Facebook whispers Nitto did the whole spline drive thing and abandoned it because it worked out more reliable keeping that Nissan oil pump drive style.

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

How that limiter behaves has a bit of an impact too, if only you knew a good tuner. 

I do, he is me lol. Like Scarface once said, I trust me lol.

My limiter has a soft cut at 7400rpm followed by a hard cut at 7700rpm with timing pulled before it hits the limiter.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yeah looks like I'll get the Nitto pump, it's only a bee's dick more than the Spool spline billet gears and a N1 Oil Pump housing.

I was trying to make the motor bullet proof, and that means rev limiter abuse proof like 1JZ and 2JZ, but I've read that the poor harmonics of the RB crank itself is enough to cause the crank snout to move and exceed it's normal circular travel cause any form of spline driven pump to misalign and go chomp. "Apparently" through Facebook whispers Nitto did the whole spline drive thing and abandoned it because it worked out more reliable keeping that Nissan oil pump drive style.

This is an interesting point. You'd think Nissan spent a great deal of effort on engineering something reliable, but I guess something went slightly wrong with the crank. Even after 20 years, Nitto found that sticking with Nissan's final design choice was the 'best'. I guess all those Group C experiences didn't go to waste :P

BTW, what about Reimax gears vs. Nitto pump?

Have done a bit of reading on the spline drives, they seem to be used in the UK a fair bit.

Think someone on here (in the build threads somewhere) is doing a build with the spline, and put up the fitting instructions. I think it mentioned removing the dowels that locate the oil pump to the block, nip up the bolts, rotate the crank a few times (guess to "centre" the splines) then torque bolts to spec.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
    • Also wanted to say, my new spark plugs are blackened looks like it's very rich. I have splitfire coilpacks but stock coilpack loom and ignitor. I tried directly grounding the ignitor ground to body as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...