Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Made up some lines, will try to get all the lines run by Sunday. Getting good speed with work as I have a couple of mates helping too.

IMG-20180705-WA0004.thumb.jpg.3e83a887aaa074b007fe961a2dd9b04e.jpg

  • Like 3
8 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

inb4 "car is now entered into WTAC"

Will be first one entering with stereo system installed.

  • 2 weeks later...

Updates to shit box, lift pump done. Using a DW200 pump which is quiet, low current thus generating low amounts of heat. This will be running just off the stock wiring with the OEM resistor deleted for less aids 

20180714_191800.thumb.jpg.48af592c7711cc5765b28ea1b60b4d04.jpg

Now to the feed, pre filter and flex sensor. That's a shorter version of the continental flex sensor (Not the Micro) and a 65 micron filter.This will incorporate a U turn just to get everything neatly tucked next to the fuel tank lid. Should look super sex once the trim is in. You won't be able to see anything :)

20180715_165801.thumb.jpg.78a3fc99dda83c3d692f51960951ef88.jpg

And yes, repurposed my old supply pump with a new Wallahbro 460. These are both the F90000267 version (wanted to keep them matched). Doubt I would need the high pressure relief version.

IMG-20180714-WA0022.thumb.jpg.f17b143a4f7204a82fdf8589bcbac7c5.jpg

And that's a wrap this weekend!

  • Like 4

In other news, my heater core split. Explains why I was losing coolant and not being to work out where it is was going...... Until I removed the ECU to sell it, found a nice Olympic sized swimming pool in the passenger foot well.

Massive karnt of a job, maximum aids.

20180719_211723.thumb.jpg.a3abf5689439a66a4dc5dd024c5a786f.jpg

20180719_211903.thumb.jpg.769c4b70b154e3415658f1ed34eaef5f.jpg

20180719_215425.thumb.jpg.e88df231bcb11304c8d755cdccaabf87.jpg0

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Dose man, what frequency do you plan to run the PWM modulation of the pumps? From what I have seen it needs to be quite high.

haven't really worked out that yet lol

Will do a bit of maths when the time comes, currently car is on the hoist looking pretty - too cold to work on it

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Dose man, what frequency do you plan to run the PWM modulation of the pumps? From what I have seen it needs to be quite high.

Actually I did the maths before :)

 

On 6/27/2018 at 8:52 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just the Jaycar shit, big enough and fast enough 1 ms (0.5 ms release and 0.5 ms on) response which translates to 1000hz. More than fast enough for what I need it for.

 

 

On 7/25/2018 at 6:19 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Actually I did the maths before :)

 

 

 

Is that really maths?

Wouldnt that be 1000hz of doing nothing ? not a useable range of modulation due to the wasted on and off time.

from what i can tell the proper systems use way higher pulse rates, like 15000Hz, which is smoother for the motor, and they dont use ssr's rather some other thing with MOSFETS or other gadgetry.

31 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Is that really maths?

Wouldnt that be 1000hz of doing nothing ? not a useable range of modulation due to the wasted on and off time.

from what i can tell the proper systems use way higher pulse rates, like 15000Hz, which is smoother for the motor, and they dont use ssr's rather some other thing with MOSFETS or other gadgetry.

that is very true, but this is a shitty fuel pump not a jet liner in the sky lol

Haltech actually recommends you start at 100hz as per their online guide

Made one more line for the surge and spent most of the evening removing all my old gauges, sensor cabling, EBC, alarm wiring and schizzle. Will be making one clean loom from the ECU all the way into the engine bay (driver side). Yep, looks like I'm getting a dash :(

20180802_220907.thumb.jpg.e803665b370a835b23f9ff8b0d445da6.jpg

20180802_215054.thumb.jpg.30be4bc0956f3a61b40f7a874adca8c4.jpg

 

3 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

is this still a street car?

Yeah hard! Has AC & working climate control, sound system (twin amps, splits, subwoofer lol), airbags, ABS.

Won't have a parachute nor will it do 9s, so street car it is :)

 

Mocked up the following 2x Jaycar 40 amp SSRs, Narva fuse holder, 65 micron Speedflow filter and Continental flex sensor.

Piece of shit R33 shit box slowing coming together. Still regret doing all this work but can't leave a project half finished.

IMG-20180803-WA0015.thumb.jpg.37a951136dc782b806c47ed2974c56f0.jpg

  • Like 3

Some minor progress, ended up drinking more at the shop rather than doing anything useful lol

Mocked up the wiring, the rubbish should be sleeved soon too. 

IMG-20180806-WA0023.thumb.jpg.556b184320c44055d8609c3e703d7814.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...