Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Filling transmission oil through gearstick?

So after having to cut off the boot that goes on the bottom of the shifter (previous owner didnt use a circlip instead used a hose clamp and tightened it with hulk hands) I'm now stuck as to what to do next. I cant change the fluid through the actual transmission because the filler plug has been tightened by hercules. What do I do next to fill the transmission oil? And does anyone have the part number for the boot that goes on the bottom there?

 

onh.png

Take circlip off, take out shifter and then fill specified volume. 

Justjap or similar will likely have replacement boot if you do a search, they are pretty generic across skylines. 

With a good length 1/2" breaker bar you don't have to be Hercules to undo the gearbox plugs. :thumbsup:

  • Like 1
Take it over pit, 1/2 inch breaker bar + pipe if necessary and the fill plug will undo.

But as above, can def be filled through the shifter

Unless you measured how much came out, how do you know how much to put in if filling from the top?

Also I'll second the above, breaker will work. Also the drain plug is NOT 1/2" but metric, even though everyone uses 1/2" drive on it. You can get a right size key off ebay, mine came from the UK.
5 hours ago, V28VX37 said:


Unless you measured how much came out, how do you know how much to put in if filling from the top?
 

I put 2.5L castrol vmx80, drove it around and it feels like a new gearbox now, do i need to put more? I really cant get the filler plug off.

Also diff fluid for r32 gtst? Minee grinds like a mofo when turning, which oils on this list should I get? http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/search?af= pagetype%3aproducts&lbc=supercheapauto-au&method=and&p=Q&ts=custom&uid=651762850&w=differential oil&isort=price

Have you got your gearbox breather hose installed? Maybe hook up a small bottle onto it - if it spits stuff out it was overfilled (doh), if not perhaps you need to add some more. Here's what mine looks like: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249950-gear-box-breather/?do=findComment&comment=7367320

 

Re diff, yours sounds like a mechanical unit, do you know which one it is? I use Motul Gear Competition 75W140 Gear & Differential Oil in my Nismo 1.5-way.

13 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Re diff, yours sounds like a mechanical unit, do you know which one it is? I use Motul Gear Competition 75W140 Gear & Differential Oil in my Nismo 1.5-way.

Just had a look at the diff, its got 3 numbers on it from top to bottom : 379, kn16, 29. All on the bottom of the diff. Is it the stock one? I think its grinding because the oils never been changed in it (drain plug doesnt have any marks on it)

Just had a look at the diff, its got 3 numbers on it from top to bottom : 379, kn16, 29. All on the bottom of the diff. Is it the stock one? I think its grinding because the oils never been changed in it (drain plug doesnt have any marks on it)

You can't tell the centre from the housing unfortunately. Maybe get some decent diff oil and just change it to to see if that does anything. If it's still clunky/chirpy around tight corners it's probably a mechanical centre.
8 hours ago, r32GTSTI6 said:

Will 2 litres of castrol vmx80 be right?

If its already noisy and you don't want to use Motul I would suggest Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip 75W 140

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...