Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, samurai_gtr said:

There seems to be two standard sizes for GTR coolers.  For my power output would I only be requiring a 70ish mm cooler?  What power figure will this take me upto?  Would I lose response if I went to a bigger cooler?  Any other downsides of a cooler that is 'too big'?

800hp at the crank on the 76mm plazamaman. I plan to test that out soon to.
Bigger cooler means more weight and i guess more pressure drop but maybe not?... Also means its harder to fit.
Thing to keep in mind also is that bigger coolers act as a bigger heat sink, eg they're physically bigger chunks of metal that take longer to heat up. an 80C cooler is going to cool less effictivly than a 50C one. They both have the same frontal area so there's the same amount of air flowing through them, though obviously on a 100mm one there's an extra 30% length of fins for it to flow more so it could cool slightly more... but then that disturbs your air flow...

End of the day will depend on your application. For a non extreme street car that's probably never going to do more than a social track day, a 76 will be fine for sure, ditto for aluminium radiator.

10 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

It's unlikely that you will get a copper radiator that is superior to an alloy radiator at a low price.  Copper rads are inherently more expensive than aluminium rads.  In my earlier reply I said " for otherwise identical heat exchangers [copper] will result in better cooling", but the problem is that there is never going to be a pair of radiators that are the same except for the material.  Aluminium rads have fatter tubes and different fin pitch where copper rads have to have thin tubes because the metal is not as strong.  It's actually easier to get a very good aluminium radiator than it is to get a very good copper one.  And the Al rad is lighter and should last longer.

There are a lot of "articles" written by radiator people on this topic that you could google up.

In your specific case, Koyo don't even offer a copper rad for R34s, so it's not even a point for discussion.  The only parts they list are for their racing product line, which are all aluminium, including the tanks.

Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy.  Sorry I should have been more specific, the two radiators I'm referring to are:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/koyo-type-r-copper-radiator-bnr34-zenki.html

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/KOY-R020879

Edited by samurai_gtr
6 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

That's somewhat intriguing, because Koyo don't list the copper version of that part number on their own website.  Only the HH20879, which is the one you linked from No Limit.

- aluminium part #: R02879

- copper is part #:  KA020879

Got the copper part # / quote from Streeter, perhaps it's an item that's only stocked in Japan?  I also looked at the KoyoRad site and catalog and couldn't find it.

No, the aluminium part number is HH02879.  The part number at No Limit is their own bastardised version, based on the original Koyo number.  Happens all the time at resellers/on-line vendors.  It's easier for them to just use a version of the manufacturer's number to reduce their own confusion.

The copper one will remain a mystery unless you buy one and prove their existence!

  • 3 months later...
On 1/22/2017 at 7:15 PM, samurai_gtr said:

Still entertaining the idea of an ARC as I've always wanted one and my mechanic highly recommends them.  Does anyone know the difference between the 073 and 079 models?

 

FYI the difference between the 073 and 079 is the number of tubes between the end tanks. 

The 3 in the 073 corresponds to 13 tubes. The 9 in the 079 = 19 tubes.  

Also, the 07 = 70mm depth of the intercooler. The overall dimensions of both units are exactly the same (300x600x70).  The only difference is the number of tubes.  

Hope this answers your question  :-)  

Both of those Koyo rads will work well, the copper one will be more expensive and heavier compared to the lighter and cheaper aluminium model but both will get the job done effectively and are quality units (I have a Koyorad aluminium model and love it). Copper is more resistant in terms of galvanic corrosion but they should both see similar service life if you replace your coolant / corrosion inhibitor regularly.  

Copper is a much better conductor of heat (aluminium is only about ~59% as capable as copper in terms of thermal conduction) but on a radiator the total surface area exposed to airflow has a much larger impact on the ability of the radiator to transfer heat to the environment vs the material used. This combined with the much lower prices / weight of aluminium and improved  welding processes have made thicker / larger aluminium radiators the norm in the vehicle industry where copper radiators used to dominate. This is the same reason why you will almost never see a copper intercooler as the additional weight and expense does not make a worthwhile performance difference..

Look at high end PC heatsink designs these days and they are almost universally using copper slugs or heatpipes to transfer heat from the processor to a large collection of aluminium fins for the same reasons. 

 

In terms of an intercooler go with a "street" (~70mm) model from a decent Australian manufacturer such as Plazmaman or PWR - both offer world class gear at prices much better than the top overseas brands.

  • Like 1

Just chipping in +1 for plazaman 76mm - same car/power as yours. 

Dyno testing showed a small improvement in response, but negligible power change. The big difference was we could hit it multiple times on the dyno and the IATs stayed steady. This is with -9s running 24-25psi so the air temp out of those won't exactly be chilly. 

If you get the IAT bung option, be sure to get a new gasket and use some RTV on it, the mounting surface on mine was very thin and it had a boost leak there. The thread for the screw that holds the sensor in was also not deep enough. 

Stealth for me. No logo painted on the core. Looks stock. post-23873-14601187466408.thumb.jpg.036d0bf2c53a44ae4861d86870c416d0.jpg

received_10154966579034838.jpeg

received_10154966579054838.jpeg

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 1

I'm very impressed with the build quality and design of our local products (that Plazmaman unit looks superb). 

I guess I'm also a fan of Japanese steel :-) OK I'm going to nerd out here for a moment - The ARC 073 is 2.5kg lighter than the stock cooler (a pretty important location on your car for weight savings).  All the original Nismo Intercoolers were made by ARC.    I "believe" ARC has a patent on the inlet of their tube design which provides improved response.  

MakeThumbImage.jpg.e11fd54a3f7c54790bd0e4ada8f2a1c5.jpg

 

Edited by ChrisR33GTS-T
  • 2 weeks later...
34 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But Plazmaman better..

Yeah Plazmaman looks to be good quality.  However when I say Greddy or HPI costs less for me, it really is only 2/3 of Plazmaman...  Shipping is a killer and so is currency exchange...

Greddy and HPI are both "bolt-on" units, so I assume they would be the same size.  But I just read closer and they are not!

HPI: 500mm x 270mm x 72mm  /  Greddy: 600mm x 284mm x 66mm

HPI is a whole 10cm shorter?  Hmm that's intersting...  What is R32's factory size?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...