Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The Cadillac calipers will require adaptor "dog bones" and that will mean precise measuring/machining (i.e. engineering). You'll want the calipers to sit closer to the barrel, which means you can run bigger rotor as well.
Or you can buy wheels that'll clear the brakes to begin with. Yes spacers will work, but you're adding another potential failure point, and pushing your wheels even further out of the guards.

But hey, it's your car.

  • Like 3
5 hours ago, MJTru said:

I'm getting these to work period.

You might be in for more self inflicted pain than necessary if you don't stay flexible. Keep a plan B of changing the rims rather than dogmatically sticking to using them, if, after all, new rims are a better solution. With stuff like this I put value on my time when weighing up the options, because there's plenty of other stuff i can do to improve the car and if I spend a bunch of time on one thing  those other things don't get done.

  • Like 1

Your all right. Some more than others. What brake manufactur offer big brake kits that are 365?? Biggest I can recall seeing is 355.
Here is a photo of the rims and tires.
Just one. Worst case I can take the tires and use them on another set of wheels.
I'm going to give it my best before I admit defeat. But I know these wheels are cheap and will shatter like glass if I hit something. I've had cheap wheels before. 20170301_073026.jpeg

That wheel design... doesn't look like there's much room behind the spokes. You'll have to get the measuring tape out.
365mm front brake kit is quite common.

If you're dead keen, which it looks like you are, you can swap the brakes with a custom kit with slim calipers, 330-350-ish mm rotors. By the time you're done, you couldn't bought proper wheels and tyres.

  • Like 1

To have them clear the last time I pulled out the measuring tape was about 13mm but the closest avaliable is 15mm. That means if I was to move the caliper outward as the spokes are very concave unit it reaches the point were I get 13mm. That would be the rotor size I'll need. This is providing the big brake kit caliper has the same dimensions as the stock ones. All of this I'll do on the weekend. I rather have big brakes and cheap wheels. I don't mind. Blah blah about nice gtr and cheap wheels I don't care. Shatter like glass and all that bs.
I have gtc' and emotions, and meister s1s. I'm not paying for that no more. If these glass shattering cheap wheels don't work I'll get another glass shattering wheel. If I work it out tho. Boy will it look the part.
That's just my 2 cents on the whole matter.

  • Like 1

As long as you don't hit something at highway speeds, shatter a wheel and go off into trees, you'll be fine.

Check out a 365mm D2 or ATTKD brake kit. Should be about $2k. Not sure where to get them over your part of the world. There are probably other brands available that's basically D2.

Today I took the caliper off and moved it outwards. Then the wheels cleared with no spacer. It's very tight. And hard to say. I would give it 2mm spacer just to be sure. But it cleared. It was hard to hold the caliper just right as the brake lines was still on. I was looking at the alcon big brake it. I think that's the name. For 2100 pounds. Comes to about 2600 usd. At 365mm. But it would be nice to have one that has a flatter caliper just to be safe. From what I see this can work even without a spacer. In this photo it's running a 10mm spacer. In the rear it need none. Clears with no problem. I'm just after a perfect wheel base foot print. As I don't want the front sticking out. If I run let's say 5mm spacer up front I'll use that in the rear regardless. I feel just by lower the car naturally it will clear. Just have to roll the gaurds out like my r32. And shape the inner plastic gaurds. 20170302_175128.jpeg20170302_175128.jpeg 20170302_184452.jpeg

Well I checked using the template. I need 8.18 inch from the center hub outwards. I don't have that it comes close as I'm off by 1/4 inch. Well that was good to find out. I'll have to get the 355 set.
The template was a great idea.

Does anyone know of a brake the system that can be used for the standard oem brembo calipers using just bigger rotors, like 355.?????

On 3/1/2017 at 2:56 PM, MJTru said:

I'm getting these to work period.
Some guys over here put Cadillac cts calipers on 240sx. I rather that kind of problems. I have a set I bought some time back. And I can try them on this gtr. If it fits s14s then I should be able to fit them on this r33 gtr. There option I just have to work through them inner clears is plenty.

be careful with that companys 'kit' i remember them making this years ago, you have to grind and cut the caliper around the mounting point. It's dangerous and stupidity at its finest.. Not having a go at you. Just be careful.

@MJTru Bro, I wrote on the first page. Get some metal tabs, drill some mounting points, mark out 25mm drill some more mounting points. Now you have a caliper extension bracket/guide on exactly where the caliper will sit if you went with 350 rotors... This way will give you a definitive answer on whether the wheels fit. No need to hold the caliper and guess. 

Also read my post above. The 'kits' coming out of that company was down right dangerous.

 

Also I've read all your other threads, you know you stuff. This thread is just funny though... Get your shit together :P 

  • Like 1
[mention=37293]MJTru[/mention] Bro, I wrote on the first page. Get some metal tabs, drill some mounting points, mark out 25mm drill some more mounting points. Now you have a caliper extension bracket/guide on exactly where the caliper will sit if you went with 350 rotors... This way will give you a definitive answer on whether the wheels fit. No need to hold the caliper and guess. 
Also read my post above. The 'kits' coming out of that company was down right dangerous.
 
Also I've read all your other threads, you know you stuff. This thread is just funny though... Get your shit together [emoji14] 

Sorry I may have mist your post and will re-read it. Well I got it to work. From what I see this will clear no problems, i lower it. My 32 stuck out more than this once it was lower it worked it self out. See the photos. This now works with spacers with 1mm breathing room.
20170303_164728.jpeg20170303_164809.jpeg20170303_164839.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...