Jump to content
SAU Community

Front/Dump Pipe/Exhaust Help

RB25Detonator
 Share

Recommended Posts

RB25Detonator Contributor

RB25Detonator

Posted
Posted
Front/Dump Pipe/Exhaust Help

Hi guys.

I want to upgrade my stock dump/front pipes and cat on my R34 GTT. I don't wanna go overboard. It's just a daily driven car. Right now I have a SR JASMA cat back exhaust. I think it's 3", but I am going to replace it with a Blitz Nur Spec cat back later on.

Firstly, I would like to replace the front/dump pipe. I saw this on just jap:
http://justjap.com/jjr-stainless-3-bellmouth-front-dump-pipe-nissan-skyline-er34.html

JJR Stainless 3" Bellmouth front/dump pipe

And this cat:

http://justjap.com/x-force-3-stainless-high-flow-cat-nissan-type-3.html

X-Force 3" Stainless High Flow Cat

Question 1: Would these two pieces bolt up together? i.e would the flanges mate up perfectly? Or would I have to modify them?

Question 2: When you put the pieces together, do you have to use some special silicon between the gaskets? or do you just use the gaskets they provide?

Question 3: Is it very important that you need a tune after the installation, or can i just adjust my boost controller down a notch and all is well?

Question 4: Would it be a good idea to wrap the front/dump pipe in Titanium wrap or waste of $$ and time?

Question 5: What is the cell rating on that x-force 3' cat and is it a good buy for a daily driver expecting a little more power gain (with supporting mods in future ofcourse)?

 

R34 GTT Coupe Manual
RB25Det, stock turbo, FMIC, stock ecu, boost controller,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470030-frontdump-pipeexhaust-help/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The dump is a fine basic choice.  The cat should bolt to it no problem.  Both of these parts are intended to swap in for stock pieces with other stock pieces or with other stock-swappable pieces.  Just use the gaskets.

The cat is just a ceramic substrate, so it won't be particularly excellent in the flow stakes.  Couldn't tell you how many cpi it is.  Doesn't matter, wouldn't buy it in preference to a 5" Venom metal cat with 100 or 200 cpi.

Wrapping the dump will keep the engine bay cooler, but likely shorten the life of the dump.  Your choice.

You won't need to adjust your boost controller unless you pick up noticeable extra boost.  R34s aren't good with more than ~10 psi on the stock ECU.  As for the tune question, if you are running as much as 10 psi, you will benefit from tuning it already.  But as he^ said, you can't unless you minimally put a Nistune into it.

RB25Detonator Contributor

RB25Detonator

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The cat is just a ceramic substrate, so it won't be particularly excellent in the flow stakes.  Couldn't tell you how many cpi it is.  Doesn't matter, wouldn't buy it in preference to a 5" Venom metal cat with 100 or 200 cpi.

What cat would you guys recommend? Are Venom really good ones? I saw this on their ebay store:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTT-VENOM-High-Flow-Cat-/251254455756?hash=item3a7feebdcc
Can't find a 5" one but would this 3" Venom be better than x-force? 

RB25Detonator Contributor

RB25Detonator

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I'm thinking of purchasing this cat back system:

http://justjap.com/blitz-nur-spec-r-exhaust-system-nissan-skyline-er34-2-door.html

Any thoughts on this?

I heard they are awfully loud. Not really keen for angry looks or neighbours but oh wellz. What do you guys reckon? Good buy?

Edited by RB25Detonator
Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted

I've heard they are quite loud also.

I went with the HKS silent hi power which isn't too loud or droney as it has a mid muffler, not just a resonator.

There's also the full custom system option which can be made however you like

My only advice is to steer clear of the JJR systems, I installed one for a friend on the weekend and it required an angle grinder and a welder to make it fit properly.. 

 

You get what you pay for :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Hiya!

      By PranK · Posted

      Welcome!  Car sounds great, anypics ?
    • luke gtr
      Hiya!

      By luke gtr · Posted

      Welcome.  800hp should be a bit of weekend fun!
    • Kinkstaah
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm going with "Just run two gates". Fix the problem conclusively. It's the only way you'd ever truly know, right?. This is all pretty much splitting hairs. Even the extreme example where it takes two whole seconds at 100kmh or something sounds monstrously dubious. And anyway, when you're punching the throttle when you 'need' this power, you aren't at 2800rpm in the wrong gear. Test it at 5600rpm in 3rd gear, when you're traction limited punching out of a sweeper. Much difference there when you account for traction?
    • GTSBoy
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually  
    • dbm7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
×
×
  • Create New...