Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 Haltech Wideband Install

Hi All, 

I'm looking at getting a Haltech wideband sensor, controller and gauge for my R33 GTST so I can keep an eye on my car closer. In particular, this kit from Golbeys https://www.golebysparts.com.au/parts/view/2994/386/can-expansion-products/can-wideband-controllers/ht-059960-wbc1-single-channel-can-wideband-gauge-kit because it is a CAN product and can tie in with my existing Haltech Platinum Pro ECU (i.e. not just a gauge)

Would I need to do anything out of the norm to set it up? I've read about adding it to the ECU in ECU manager but will that cause any issues with the existing tune? I would like to have the gauge and the ability to log without affecting anything already configured. 

In addition to the above has anyone used this on here before and have they had any issues?

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470097-r33-haltech-wideband-install/
Share on other sites

Better off just getting a standalone unit and feeding the 0-5v output to the ECU if you want a reading from a gauge.

Also works out cheaper than the whole Halal box and sensor. Yes you're relying on a 0-5V output and input scaling however of you add a time delay before it starts to read it isn't too bad.

There should be one spare AVI on the ECU, if not buy the Auxiliary harness which gives you an additional 4x inputs.  Just splice a 0-5 output direct to the loom and feed back the sensor ground to the wideband's sensor ground. 

Then hop into ECU Manager, hit F4 and select the correct input vs. type. Once you've done that, go and adjust the linear scaling. Use what is documented in your wideband' manual. e.g 0.2V is 8afr and 4.7v is 22 (made up those numbers, they're wrong).

Then you can enable wideband feedback and engine protection too :)

Hmm, I'll head outside and look at the ecu shortly but if I were to get another WBO2 + the AUX harness it would be almost the same as getting the haltech wideband kit :( 
I definitely like the idea of not having to buy the Haltech kit though - Do you recommend any particular WBO2s if I go that route?

Cheers 

Bit the bullet and went with the Haltech for simplicity. Out of curiosity does anyone have recommendations for power connections? It needs constant 12V not switched - I'm not sure if it matters but it could be run to the boot where the battery is (being such a long run) or is there somewhere better? 

Cheers

12 hours ago, 89CAL said:

If its closer, why not use the positive terminals in the relay box in the engine bay?

Ended up running it to the back instead, it was a straight run and probably only 1-2m longer if that.

Thanks for the help guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...