Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Insurance for skyline

Guys need help please recently have bought skyline r33 and need insurance but nobody ready to do guys it's just first time I have heard about that you can't get insurance for second hand import cars . RACQ , Shannon are the people that I have spoken to.

if someone knows please drop me a line.

just need 3rd party include fire and theft insurance. 

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/470445-insurance-for-skyline/
Share on other sites

I can tell you that you can get insurance for second hand imports. I am currently with Shannons who have been quite good so far. My car is fully covered though, so I can't comment too much on only having 3rd party. 

Even the RACV were willing to cover a standard Skyline here in Melbourne, so you might just need to run the details through each of the online quote generators. 

Shannon's will normally offer comprehensive cover as lots of guys here (inc me) are covered by them. Would be strange circumstances for them to decline a comprehensive policy request but on depends on your age and history.

Try "Just Car Insurance" as they normally offer cover for younger drivers with imports but will charge for it.

4 minutes ago, baron_von_bootsector said:

Try "Just Car Insurance" as they normally offer cover for younger drivers with imports but will charge for it.

I think Just Car are no more. I think most of their customers ended up with Shannons or Famous Insurance.

http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/

Try these guys, otherwise, google might be your friend for your request.

3 minutes ago, Steve85 said:

I think Just Car are no more. I think most of their customers ended up with Shannons or Famous Insurance.

http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/

Try these guys, otherwise, google might be your friend for your request.

Oops - it seems you may require a modified DeLorean to get a policy from Just Car Insurance!

  • Like 1

Hey mate, you can try Lumley as well if you have had no luck with Shannons.  

I have my 32 GTR insured with Lumley they seem to have been ok so far, I think it was under modern classic because it's not a daily driven car.

Heads up though depending on how much you want the car insured for it my cost you a nice premium :)

Yup

Maximum Sum Insured is contingent on Model rather than Mods. My R33 GTR is basically stock. But just because it's an N1, I got an offer of a Sum Insured of  $195,000

I know how you feel. Just shop around and if you can strike 2 reasonable insurers, some SAUers alternate between the two every other year. That's because when it's time to renew, that insurer often drops the value. Sux ay!

  • 3 weeks later...

I just signed both my cars up with Shannons.
Laid Up Insurance on my R33 whilst she's being rebuilt and Full Comp on my Ford BF Wagon.
Good value, good insured amounts, better than RACV.

RACV are quick to payout but also quick to write your car off as they only quote on repairing your car with brand new parts so if its an import they'll write it off pretty quick as economical.
eg A new set of airbags on an S2 Skyline new will set you back $7,000 and the insurance company will write the car off if damage is 70% or more of its worth.
I got to buy my car back with RACV but the premiums are ridiculously expensive.

I just signed both my cars up with Shannons.
Laid Up Insurance on my R33 whilst she's being rebuilt and Full Comp on my Ford BF Wagon.
Good value, good insured amounts, better than RACV.

RACV are quick to payout but also quick to write your car off as they only quote on repairing your car with brand new parts so if its an import they'll write it off pretty quick as economical.
eg A new set of airbags on an S2 Skyline new will set you back $7,000 and the insurance company will write the car off if damage is 70% or more of its worth.
I got to buy my car back with RACV but the premiums are ridiculously expensive.


That's actually not correct. It's not a percentage that they work on [emoji23]

RACV's assessor told me this information. He said if it costs the insurance company more than approx figure of 70% of the cars total worth they can write the car off as an Economical Write Off and payout.

 

 

RACV's assessor told me this information. He said if it costs the insurance company more than approx figure of 70% of the cars total worth they can write the car off as an Economical Write Off and payout.
 
 



If it's a percentage which is less than 100% wouldn't it be cheaper for the company to repair it? [emoji57]

Rule of thumb is that if cost of repairs, towing/storage costs and savage etc. exceeds the value that's where they will write it off as un economical.

They may, now depending on the situation write a vehicle off as a business decision if less or if it's obviously unsafe to repair.

I also work in the industry [emoji4]

RACV for example said to me that they only quote repairs based on using Brand New parts, not spare parts because they offer a guarantee on repairs done.

 

My point being, brand new OEM Nissan parts for an R33 are darn expensive.

 

E.G. a set of OEM airbags a cool $6,500, Headlights around $1,400 a pair, Rad Support $500, etc etc.

So it doesn't take much for them to write your R33 off as an economical write off.

 

Obviously if the cars structurally compromised they will deem it a statutory write off regardless of the repair cost and they don't let you buy the car back at all, they send it to Pickles and you can bid for your wreck , if a statutory write off will never be able to re-register the car.

They definitely factor in the wreck price.

All complicated and each insurer has different rules, excess's .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I just signed both my cars up with Shannons.
Laid Up Insurance on my R33 whilst she's being rebuilt and Full Comp on my Ford BF Wagon.
Good value, good insured amounts, better than RACV.

RACV are quick to payout but also quick to write your car off as they only quote on repairing your car with brand new parts so if its an import they'll write it off pretty quick as economical.
eg A new set of airbags on an S2 Skyline new will set you back $7,000 and the insurance company will write the car off if damage is 70% or more of its worth.
I got to buy my car back with RACV but the premiums are ridiculously expensive.

How much did you buy the car back for? And what did RACV value your car at?
If you don't mind me asking

I have bomb insurance with AAMI...was with Just Cars but AAMI took over the policy.  My Gtst is somewhat modified with bolt on stuff, but at the end of the day its only worth $10-15K.

And they wanted $2K for full insurance over 15 years ago...so I figure I am ahead.  But you need to have nil accidents and avoid slimy thieves for that to happen.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...