Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

 

Guys,

 

Regretful sale, but the time has come have lost the interest in this car, have owned it for 7 years.

 

1997 build gtr in midnight purple, vspec

 

Not in showroom condition

 

16-000 thousand k's all country kms since I owned car, brought in 2010 with 90k on the clock,

 

Has a broken front lip where I hit a rabbit at night, a slight crack in bumper when hit the rabbit

 

Got a hole in rear turbo gasket exhaust side

 

Still has custom plates " R33gtr"

 

Start price @ $20 thousand, but make an offer, really want this car gone.. serious offers will be considered.

 

I know it's not in the best conition but at the end of the day it is still a series 3 gtr in midnight purple.

 

Will try get more photos up

 

Thanks jake

*phone number removed*

 

Thanks guys

IMG_0209.jpgIMG_0205.jpg

 

 

Edited by niZmO_Man
removed mobile number
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471449-r33gtr-series-3-need-gone/
Share on other sites

On 31/07/2017 at 1:48 PM, wytnte said:

Guys,
 
Regretful sale, but the time has come have lost the interest in this car, have owned it for 7 years.
 
1997 build gtr in midnight purple, vspec
 
Not in showroom condition
 
16-000 thousand k's all country kms since I owned car, brought in 2010 with 90k on the clock,
 
Has a broken front lip where I hit a rabbit at night, a slight crack in bumper when hit the rabbit
 
Got a hole in rear turbo gasket exhaust side
 
Still has custom plates " R33gtr"
 
Start price @ $20 thousand, but make an offer, really want this car gone.. serious offers will be considered.
 
I know it's not in the best conition but at the end of the day it is still a series 3 gtr in midnight purple.
 
Will try get more photos up
 
Thanks jake

 
Thanks guys
IMG_0209.thumb.jpg.96f725d80e2cab9e33ea0726d3f5cc1a.jpgIMG_0205.thumb.jpg.ab8f4584c05835b0a47f20fdf9b1aa7b.jpg
 


IMG_0207.jpgIMG_0030.jpg

4 minutes ago, wytnte said:

Can we get this removed? I'm using my phone and can't work it out?

Thanks for all the interest guys.
 

I'll edit out your phone number, but the thread stays for archival purposes.

On 8/2/2017 at 10:34 AM, admS15 said:

More like, fairly priced for the overall condition. Definitely good buying and cheap in the current jdm craze climate.

IMO cars that are "fairly" priced don't sell in a matter of hours...particularly 20+ year old classics...even a couple of days is quick. I say underpriced because another 2-3k on this would still have moved it on in less than a week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...