Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just now, 26DETT said:

Yeah i just don't know what to get i need a shopping list

Aight - well I just gave you one :)

1 minute ago, inmaniac said:

With that kind of turbo setup surely you'd want all the usual stuff?

  • Exhaust
  • FMIC
  • Fuel Pump
  • Injectors
  • AFM
  • ECU

 

7 minutes ago, 26DETT said:

Can you be more specific? Eg. Injectors 500cc? Lol emoji111.png

Mate, there are literally 1000's of variables when you're talking about all of those items. Just use the search bar for each one, you'll find very extensive threads covering each one.

Here's some arbitrary items (with no thought to your power goals or budget):

  • Exhaust - Custom made, 3in TBE, high flow cat
  • FMIC - Plazmaman Core, Piping kit
  • Fuel Pump - Walbro 460LPH (buy along with a e85 flex sensor, Turbosmart FPR)
  • Injectors - 1000cc Xspurt
  • AFM - Z32 or R35
  • ECU - Link, Haltech, take your pick
Edited by inmaniac

+ boost controller (if your ecu doesnt have one)

 

+ Exhaust includes new downpipe and possibly whole New exhaust

 

+ New intercooler piping

 

+ fuel pump wiring

 

+tune

 

+ New turbo feed/return limes

 

+ clutch

 

+possibly New exhaust manifold studs (mine snapped when I removed the OEM manifold from s1 rb25det).

 

+Depending on boost/ power levels you plan to run possibly New head gasket and head bolts/studs. Maybe even forged internals depending on your budget/engine condition/how much you want to push it.

 

And ofcourse good manifold and wg. Lots of small things (like manifold studs etc) that might need changing can add quite a lot to the cost

 

 

 

 

 

I was looking at this turbo kit from cxracing. Let me know what you guys think https://www.cxracing.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=92_629_1613&product_id=2824


It's cheap Chinese crap, turbo is journal bearing which will make it extra extra laggy in that size. If they're the quality of components you're going to use, you may want to rethink your plan. There's plenty of information on sau on how to build and not build your car. I suggest you start researching. Hypergear is a popular turbo supplier for rb engines. Good luck.
  • Like 2

What sort of power figure are you chasing for? Been an OP6, we can just high flow your stock turbo that can support up to 290rwkws on pump fuel.

In terms of engine supporting mods. This is what I've done to my R34 that have made decent power:

- Adaptronic ECU
- 1000CC ID injectors
- 3 inches turbo back exhaust
- Walbro 470L/H Fuel pump
- 3 inches induction pipe
- Split fire coil packs
- PWR 600x300x81mm intercooler

I understand trying to achieve certain sounds, but I hope you're not basing your entire build around it lol. Get the parts you need for desired power, then work out what kind of exhaust system you'd use. Youtube and talking to people on this forum would help with those decisions.

Regarding Hypergear, I recently bought one of their 21U high flows (smaller than OP6) and I've got 240ish rwkw (320hp to the wheels) and that's on pump fuel and basic mods. I highly recommend them and they've got a looooooong history in this community.

Even if you don't go with Hypergear, don't go with that chinese crappy turbo, you'll regret it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...