Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recommend me a turbo/cam setup- RB25

Hi all,

I'm hoping someone can save me the money on spending on a new setup that doesn't meet my needs. I've currently got about 330kw with an old garret 3080 0.82 housing through a built RB25 on E85. I'm running 25psi currently and would like to upgrade cams and springs, thinking while I'm there to do turbo, manifold, gates etc.

 

I'm looking for about 450kw give or take, preferably give.. So far im thinking of either a 6466 or a gtx3584rs?

When it comes to cams, I don't mind losing the VCT if its more beneficial to do so. I don't really have a cam selection in mind. Everyone loves that lumpy idle but am unsure of what to get.

 

Currently the car is only used a handful of times a month. Mainly drag use/roll racing with some street driving (not daily driver).

Just looking for advice, maybe from people who have gone down a similar path or someone who can guide me in the right direction.

 

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471627-recommend-me-a-turbocam-setup-rb25/
Share on other sites

What housing do you have on the 8374 and what power you making at what psi mate?

 

twin scroll or nah? 

I don't mind the cam noise, car is barely driven. Just after performance if noise is there great if not that's fine too

I'm fitting a 9174 soon with 1.05 housing. If I was in your position I'd go with a neo engine and 8374. I've used Borg Warner turbos that are essentially s300 airwerks and love them. I did have a neo manual stages years ago with a trust t67 which was ok but poor compared to today's tech.

I'm looking at fitting vcam to rb26 too. I'd definitely keep vct.

If near Newcastle I can take you for a drive to give you an idea.

 

 

4 hours ago, Scott Black said:

Fwiw a gtx3582r will make the power you want. Your not going to want anything more than just mild drop in cams for that level anyway. However would recommend replacing the valve springs anyway.

Yeah I considered the 3582r. But thought would rather overshoot then upgrade again in 6 months time to be honest.

definetely doing sprints but still uncertain about cams and size 

Get a Precision 6466 and Tomei Poncams.
I'm just saying that because that is what I will be using on mine but probably won't get around to fit anytime soon but it would be interesting what results that setup is capable of .
 

EFR8374 and Tomei Pon cams.  The EFR8374 is proven time and time again to go >450kws and is responsive as hell for a turbo capable of that, the pon cams retain VCT and the setup should stay perfectly streetable.  A 6466 or a GTX3584RS are both serious overkill.

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, Lithium said:

EFR8374 and Tomei Pon cams.  The EFR8374 is proven time and time again to go >450kws and is responsive as hell for a turbo capable of that, the pon cams retain VCT and the setup should stay perfectly streetable.  A 6466 or a GTX3584RS are both serious overkill.

Would you be suggesting t4 twin scroll setup with a .80 something housing? 

 

I did originally like the setup idea but seemed like a fair whack of fab work involved to get it all to work and sit in the bay. I could be wrong tho

Edited by ironmcl
Error
21 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I had a play around then, tried to not change too much just obviously the must have info. In regards to boost how would I know what to type in for each part of the Rev range?

 

30 minutes ago, ironmcl said:

Would you be suggesting t4 twin scroll setup with a .80 something housing? 

 

I did originally like the setup idea but seemed like a fair whack of fab work involved to get it all to work and sit in the bay. I could be wrong tho

1.05a/r twin scroll setup.  I know it sounds big, but trust me on that - it'd be the go.

No matter what you'll be down for a bit of fabrication for that power level, what packaging limitations or preferences do you have?  Are you preferring to stay single entry?   In your position I'd personally be looking at a GTX3582R if single entry was the preferred choice, or EFR8374 if twin scroll was an option.  Both are very potent turbos and ideal for that mid 400kw @ wheels range on E85

  • Like 1
13 minutes ago, Lithium said:

1.05a/r twin scroll setup.  I know it sounds big, but trust me on that - it'd be the go.

No matter what you'll be down for a bit of fabrication for that power level, what packaging limitations or preferences do you have?  Are you preferring to stay single entry?   In your position I'd personally be looking at a GTX3582R if single entry was the preferred choice, or EFR8374 if twin scroll was an option.  Both are very potent turbos and ideal for that mid 400kw @ wheels range on E85

I'm assuming I couldn't just slap on a 6boost t4 manifold to suit the turbo and housing? The only reason I was considering just doing the single entry was due to less stuffing around. It does make more sense though to do it once and get the better outcome of the twin scroll setup.

Ive read before about the larger housing being more ideal so not doubting you at all.

To be honest I'm not sure how much fab work would be required to get it to work and mainly fit I assume?

 

How much boost do you think the setup would want if you had to have a guess? 

1 hour ago, ironmcl said:

I had a play around then, tried to not change too much just obviously the must have info. In regards to boost how would I know what to type in for each part of the Rev range?

 

You play with the boost at each rev point to get the operating line running through the best efficiency part of the compressor map.  You can't make the boost so high that it goes over the surge line.  You can't make it so low that it falls off the right hand side of the map.  You can't set it so that you need a stupid turbine to run it. It's all a bit of trial and error.  But once you've played with a it a bit, it makes perfect sense.  In fact, watch the Youtube videos put out by BW to get the explicit instructions.  Makes it easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...