Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Andrew,
Maybe really dumb Q but will extra electrical output overload stock spec fuses?
What else will I need to upgrade to run uprated alternator safely?
Thanks mate. 

Personally I would run a new 8g line from alternator to battery as the factory alternator reliability issues with the connection at the main fuse block

As for pics and specs it all with my cnc man, once he is finished I will post up.
  • Like 1

I would be 1000% down for this if i had not already commited to an ard one. The place i bought it from (pm me if you want to know) has been taking the piss really. I ordered it in November. Delays... delays... i bet it will be late at the end of this month also...

Interested.  I'd also be interested if you have any options with higher output (150+)

You can get 150A,160A,180A,220A alternators from USA market is huge for ls engines and accessories. I saw last night 220A Alternators for $200 usd new. All you'll need is my mounting kit and your ready to roll.

The sense wire and idiot light connection is the same as factory so it plugs straight in. The power/ charge line need a bigger eyelet ring terminal fitted which is supplied or you can drill out the factory ring terminal eyelet to suit.

Picked up my alternator kit from Rat32r yesterday. Was a pleasure doing business. I can say to anyone thinking of getting one, he was honest, knowledgeable and true to his word. The product looks the goods.
I will report back once it’s fitted to my car.
Again, thank you mate.
Here is the photos you f it out of the car for anyone interested.
IMG_6459.jpg
IMG_6460.jpg
IMG_6461.jpg
IMG_6462.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...