Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 randomly dies

Fr3akyR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fr3akyR33 Enthusiast

Fr3akyR33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, it's probably been covered, but for the life of me can't seem to figure it out and google isn't really helping.

The car will start fine and run fine, but after 5 minutes the whole car will seemingly die and the battery light comes on, its a new battery but has been charged and I didn't have this problem before, but however when the car has had that hickup it seems to be fine afterwards, just find it weird that i lose all power and engine cuts out, could it be alternator and or blown fuse causing the car to be shitty?

(Also this only happens first thing in the morning, in the afternoon on the way from work it has no problems at all)

Any advice is much appreciated :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It's not the battery.  There is no battery light.  That's the "ignition on but no roundy roundy happening light".

If it's electrical, it will be the ECCS relay.  If it is engine temperature related, it will be the idle control/cold start stuff not working properly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fr3akyR33 Enthusiast

Fr3akyR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
11 minutes ago, r34.rory said:

Check the alt belt, could be worn and slipping or not enough tension maybe.

My R34 battery light came on last year and died turned out the belt for alternator shredded and flew off.

f**k,I'll have a look, i know my battery went dead a month ago but fully charged it and didn't have an issue till now, will check when i get home

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Look, if the engine is just stopping, then either it has a mechanical problem / vacuum leak / fuel supply issue etc etc, OR it is simply losing electrical power to something vital.  These vital things include the coils, for example, and the ECU.  The Nissan engine management system is known by their abbreviation ECCS.  The ECCS relay is the relay that provides power to the ECU.  Its operation is a little complicated, but the overall view is that when you want the engine to be running the ECCS relay needs to be powered up.  Like all relays, they can get flaky.  When they do, they can drop power to the ECU, which tends to have sudden consequences.

You can find the relay near the ECU.  If you don't know what you're doing, you shouldn't stuff around down there, because you can make things worse.  If you had put the words "ECCS relay" into google, you would have found all the thousands of words that have been written on here across the last 25 years, in which you will find much wisdom.  The O2 sensor and the TPS are not likely to be responsible for your stoppages.  The CAS might.  The fuel pump might, just.  A broken wire in a loom definitely could.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
inmaniac Community Regular

inmaniac

Posted
Posted

Then it's not your alternator. If a dead alternator caused the engine to stop then the battery power would be drained. You wouldn't be able to start it back up.

GTSBoy noted many things to check. Start there as I reckon he's on the money.

As a side, I had a similar issue with intermittent stalling out of nowhere. After some trial and error I narrowed it down to my fuel pump relay - it's rare for these to die but it happens. I replaced mine and I was sweet, no more problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Is it a series 1 ? If it is you might want to check your air flow meter. The connector pins, internally, might need re-soldering. I think there are a few posts on the subject here in this forum

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
Fr3akyR33 Enthusiast

Fr3akyR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey mate! Cleaned the iacv, also had a small vac leak on the std intercooler piping, but other than that it still struggles some mornings and still feels like it wants to stall, but I couldn’t find anything wrong in the wiring, even my mechanic couldn’t find anything. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R43 GT RB20DE neo 2.0 liter manual swap

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sure, but the result will put so little power to the ground it won't be able to move. Whatever your reason, it will be cheaper and more practical to sell the manual and buy an automatic
    • Patrickxdf
      R43 GT RB20DE neo 2.0 liter manual swap

      By Patrickxdf · Posted

      Hi! Is it possible to use and swap the RB25DET/RB25Neo manual gerbox on to my RB20DE Neo engine with an automatic transmission?
    • funkymonkey
      Share Your Euro!

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      my current daily - BiTurbo Diesel SQ5 8R with a remap and some light cosmetic mods. Which is sitting in front of my old daily that hasn’t been driven in 7 years now, home to numerous redbacks no doubt. MK4 Golf GTI with a boser hood extension, air ride airbag suspension, factory RHD Xenon’s from the Japanese R32 and stubby electric mirrors (also from Japan) sitting on custom made 18x10” Work Meisters for the golf’s bolt pattern and offset. one day I’ll revive it as a project, pull the engine out, put some forged bits in, chuck a big turbo on it and tune it to somewhere around 250kw and call it a barn find to make millions off YouTube views. Till then, it is a good breeding home for redbacks and the boot is good for storing my Christmas tree for 11 months of the year.
    • funkymonkey
      Gtr r32 tank leaking: can I use stagea whc34 tank

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      Thanks for jumping in guys, suggested @Sbluatx post here for help. Was hoping one of the guys with a RWD stages could confirm if the tank was the same as the AWD one
    • Chris_Guthrie
      Misfire/stalling issues

      By Chris_Guthrie · Posted

      I got another MAF and installed it. Idle misfire was still present. Finally got the tank low enough to refuel and did so. Did a short drive to warm the car up and no issues, pretty short drive. Going to attempt soon to take a longer drive to see. I don't think the MAF fixed it if anything, definitely thinking it was fuel related. As soon as I put fresh fuel in the car felt so much better. But, still need a longer test drive to verify. I'll report back once done.  I'm definitely going to be getting monitoring and tuning parts soon as my next upgrade (decided on the link after talking with my tuner), just been real tight with just purchasing the car and sudden onset of issues. I've also ordered a new exhaust stud kit and gasket to fix that obvious problem. Once it's back up to par I'll start with the goodies
×
×
  • Create New...