Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 GTS-T Performance Chip

heartless

By heartless,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

heartless Apprentice

heartless

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey, This is my first post here and i was just wondering about this performance chip i found it seemed alot cheaper than having a new ECU put in and Tuned & with it being so much cheaper i have started to wonder if its legitimate or if its just a giant scam (leaning more towards scam)

I was just wondering if any of you had any experience with this company or similar products and if so with the similar products would you recommend them?

https://havokengineering.com/products/havok-engineering-r33-rb25det-ecu-upgrade-chip-for-the-r33-ecu

 

edit:

I drive a Japanese Import R33 GTS-T (Not sure if it makes a difference)

Edited by heartless
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473798-r33-gts-t-performance-chip/
Share on other sites
Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

Or get a Toshi remap, he sockets the ECU and pops in his own tunes which are made for Australian fuel and climate. 

He pulls out timing and moves the TP Load cut higher up so you won't get that dreaded "rich and retard" as many call it.

heartless Apprentice

heartless

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Didn't think so just wanted to double check thought it seemed a bit dodgy has anyone got any experience with a https://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-new-el-hand-controller 

if so are they any good/would you recommend?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

PowerFC is a relatively cheap & easy way to put an ECU into an R33.  It is VERY old tech now though.  If you want modern tech, then ANY other aftermarket ECU is miles better.  Haltech, Link and so on usually do plug in models for Skylines, making them just as easy to install.  Costs a bit more than a PFC usually though.

Nistune is still my preferred way to go about it for a stockish street car.  Use an R32 ECU with Nistune board and set up for R33, for less money than the above options.  It's still old tech, but it's OEM old tech which is still very good for running a dirty old RB, and it look standard so it's one less thing to get defected for.

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

And Nistune, although "old" still supports flex, reverse flex, launch control and very rudimentary engine protection such as cutting RPM when coolant temp is exceeded, OR cutting fuel when the TP Load limit is breeched.

PFC (for me personally, this is my personal opinion) should be a last option.

  • 2 weeks later...
GTofuS-T Grand Master

GTofuS-T

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Birds said:

Think we need to know more about OPs setup before recommending ECUs. You could end up wasting a lot of money otherwise...

I think OP needs to do some research as all ECU options are continuously discussed at length

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted
On 17/04/2018 at 6:58 PM, heartless said:

Didn't think so just wanted to double check thought it seemed a bit dodgy has anyone got any experience with a https://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-new-el-hand-controller 

if so are they any good/would you recommend?

I used a secondhand power fc, is a good option on a budget build.  If you have lots of $$ then go a haltech... 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...