Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys just wanted to ask for your advise about the fitment of this crank collar.

The grub screws are drilled about 3mm into the crank, i have taken them out and not screwed them back in all the way.

My concern is it looks like the crank has been machined so the collar will slip on and loctite used to help hold it.

I hope im wrong but what are your thoughts, would you be happy to use as is, if not what are my options.

Thanks ?

Screenshot_20180424-085059_Gallery_resized_1.thumb.jpg.79d104de72293c6479712f2862b110ba.jpgScreenshot_20180424-085029_Gallery_resized_1.thumb.jpg.08c1d599654b1f4a1c98e59ccfe979ba.jpgScreenshot_20180424-085112_Gallery_resized_1.thumb.jpg.f1e720028c6649433f847420cd054f5f.jpg

Edited by NEO25T
Spelling
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473854-crank-collar-fitment/
Share on other sites

They were like figjam do you know how many engines we do here, really poor attitude when i asked them about.

Said they would not have sent it out if that was the case but the owner didnt see it before i picked up.

Tone changed a little when i said it had red loctite and they wanted me to bring it back for them to inspect, but things got a little heated and i said i wouldnt let them touch it.

It's tricky to say for sure. They may have gone above and beyond and used the loctite even though it wasnt required. Or they realised it slipped on and loctited it.

 

Loctite is pretty good stuff, but for such an important part of the engine I wouldn't want any doubts .

Definitely sucks to not know for sure

  • Like 1

Im thinking lightly warm with heat gun and give it a twist to see if it moves.

On the other hand the loctite and grubscrews should hold it?

Possibility to have it welded maybe, im just not sure.

Hi octane posted a pic on facebook where a crank nose had snapped off, so ive got it on my head this is going to do the same lol.

Its dangerous when you have a little bit of information......

Its meant to be a shrink fit.  No loctite. If the grubscrews have been screwed into the crank you can be sure the collar has been fitted improperly. The  fix is to build up the crank with weld and machine it down to the correct size to achieve a shrink fit.

  • Like 1

Should be taken back to hear what they have to say about it. How many people work there, is there a chance someone dodgy in the workshop did the job? 

The proper course of action is to have the collar taken off and sizes checked, you also want to see if they put a decent radius in the corner. Too small of a radius could lead to snappage.

3 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

, wouldn't it make more sense to just get a new crank collar made and achieve The Shrink fit with the new collar rather than welding and grinding a crank which would certainly cost heaps more?

Not if you can make the idiot who made the mistake  rectify it at his expense. Plus the holes drilled in the nose of the crank should be filled with weld. But failing that I guess you could get a new custom crank collar made but unless you had the means to make it yourself it would not be cheap.

2 hours ago, NEO25T said:

I wonder if different manufacturers collars are slightly different sizes.

Not a precise measurement but the crank measures 35mm where the collar slides on

The crank collars I used to sell are made in large quantities on  CNC equipment and do not vary at all or from Tomei or other collars. It is obvious that the person who turned down the crank made a mistake or just did not know what a shrink fit is... in this case the crank needs to be left 0.05 to 0.1mm larger in diameter than the ID of the collar.

21 hours ago, Dobz said:

So you're just going to give up that easy?

No just need a time out lol, im use to things not working out the first attempt or 2.

This car really should have been deregistered and sent to scrap but i kind of liked it so gave it a home, its been an interesting/ expensive 12 months of ownership......

On 4/26/2018 at 6:57 PM, NEO25T said:

No just need a time out lol, im use to things not working out the first attempt or 2.

This car really should have been deregistered and sent to scrap but i kind of liked it so gave it a home, its been an interesting/ expensive 12 months of ownership......

Typical Skyline ownership, when my motor exploded I was going to strap and strip the car.

Somehow, a few cans later a few drunken discussions with people I ended up spending triple the car's worth and now have a built motor and a barely working car LOL.

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...