Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been using Platinum Pro Plug-in for my R34 GTR for awhile now, I see many people switching to Hall Effect Sensors for the RB26. Anyone have postive experience here?

 

I’m planning out my RB28 build now and would like to know what is the involvment in switching stock sensors to these aftermarket trigger kits? I’m thinking to use this kit that places a Hall effect sensor at the exhaust cam and crank as well. Specifically this kit https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/nissan-rb-crank-cam-trigger-kit-twin-cam/

Edited by etang789
2 hours ago, etang789 said:

 I see many people switching to Hall Effect Sensors for the RB26. Anyone have postive experience here?

I’m planning out my RB28 build now and would like to know what is the involvment in switching stock sensors to these aftermarket trigger kits? 

As the OEM CAS units age, there is a definite drop off in their accuracy.  Things wear, and you get a small amount of slop in the drive splines.

And with bigger power pulses from a more powerful engine, this all combines to produce timing scatter so that the ECU doesn't exactly know correct engine speed or position.  Not good when you want a good tune and reliability.

Proper crank trigger setup is the ultimate fix IMO with an RB.  Equal importance to an oiling system that doesn't suck air or break pump gears.

Hall sensors are not the ideal choice and can get "lost" sometimes.  Which is why OEM setups use reluctors.

But the kit you mention can/does work well.  Which it would want to, for the $$ required. You will need some wiring changes, and a tuner who knows how to configure the ECU to read/interpret the triggering.

  • Like 1
On 5/21/2018 at 10:56 AM, Dale FZ1 said:

As the OEM CAS units age, there is a definite drop off in their accuracy.  Things wear, and you get a small amount of slop in the drive splines.

And with bigger power pulses from a more powerful engine, this all combines to produce timing scatter so that the ECU doesn't exactly know correct engine speed or position.  Not good when you want a good tune and reliability.

Proper crank trigger setup is the ultimate fix IMO with an RB.  Equal importance to an oiling system that doesn't suck air or break pump gears.

Hall sensors are not the ideal choice and can get "lost" sometimes.  Which is why OEM setups use reluctors.

But the kit you mention can/does work well.  Which it would want to, for the $$ required. You will need some wiring changes, and a tuner who knows how to configure the ECU to read/interpret the triggering.

Thanks for the feed back seems like other than price it doesn't have much down side. Since my current CAS is and old unit for R32 and I do have an R34 so I will have to get a new CAS anyways might as well go with Hall Sensors. But I wish there are direct plug and play without any splicing OEM wirings.

9 hours ago, etang789 said:

Other than price it doesn't have much down side.

I wish there are direct plug and play without any splicing OEM wirings.

The price is an investment in reliability and achieving whatever your mechanical layout and tuning capabilities will allow.  Who wants to blow an engine because of wildly scattered ignition at high rpm/load?

As for direct plug & play, forget it.  You're moving away from OEM spec so expect there's going to be some work involved.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...