Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my goal is to break 500whp yet still be a weekend driver

What i have

greedy FMIC

Apexi power intake kit

Tein coilovers and dampener kit

52mill radiator  

Parts list.

Q45 Airflow meter $100-150

Plenum , fuel rail, throttle body $1000 (for engine clean up only minimal performance increase)

Walbro 400LPH $200

ECU I have a haltech platinum Pro ecu kit, let me know if I should upgrade this to make 500hp (370rwkw)

Injectors 1000cc $1000-$1100

Carbon clutch twin plate with flywheel $2500 (for $300-500 more but can handle upto 800 hp, if anyone gets a gtt to 800 please fill out your will)

Camsharft poncam type b $700

Cam pullys $350

And the big one GT35R turbo kit $4200

Whiteline sway bars $700

any tips or advice or different products i should buy? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474474-r34-gtt-parts-list/
Share on other sites

ECU will be fine.  You might consider that the best way to make 500rwkW will be with E85, in which case you would require larger injectors.  Not to mention some serious fuel pump + wiring.  A single Walbro 400 will be teetering on the edge on 98, let alone on pineapple juice.

Poncams are shit.  Think about getting something with more lift.  While on the topic, seriously think about a decent port job.  That's free power right there.

GT35R.  Um.  How about something with a T4 flange and a Borg Warner badge?  Top mount manifold, big external gate, big dump pipe and at least a MAC valve required for boost control here.

You will probably run out of spark before you get there. So budget for an ignition upgrade too.  At least some new stockers/Splitfires, but better option would be a pencil coil of some sort (Yaris/Celica/Audi/R35GTR, etc).

  • Like 1

Yuh.  Simple rule of thumb.  On petrol, on a 6 cylinder engine, each cc of capacity of a single injector is approximately 1HP.  1000cc -> ~1000HP. At the flywheel.  You take ~75% of that for conversion to kW.  So, 750kW.  You take 75% of that to account for typical* 25% chassis dyno losses, and 750 engine kW becomes ~560rwkW.  You need at least 30% extra fuel when running E85, so divide 560 by 1.3 to get a rough guide to how much power you can squeeze from 1000cc injectors on E85....It's only ~430.  A long way from 500.

* Aussie Dyno Dynamics dynos seem to throw about that much power into the air.  US dynos read higher fractions of the engine power.  Other countries/brands may be just about anywhere.

Now, keep in mind that the injector rule of thumb and the dyno loss and the E85 rule of thumb all have wiggle room in them, but realistically, not enough to say that you will be comfortably making 500rwkW..........And then I look at your OP again and realise that you said 500rwHP and that changes things.  That's only ~660 engine HP and therefore probably require up to ~900cc injectors.  So 1000cc injectors will probably do it.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

GT35R.  Um.  How about something with a T4 flange and a Borg Warner badge?  Top mount manifold, big external gate, big dump pipe and at least a MAC valve required for boost control here.

so maybe this? twin scroll? (if twin .91 or 1.0) Borg Warner S300SX3 (S366) Turbocharger

if so can you help me out in picking a correct wastegate.

looks like i will need 4" dump 

and for a Mac just standard?

There's a number of people who like the S series Borg Warner turbos....but that's not what I was thinking of.  I was thinking of their modern tech turbos, the EFR range.

I strongly suggest that you start reading the various (dozens) of threads on here that already discuss all these things.  Also go to the BW website and play with their matchbot.

Wastegate will probably want to be 60mm, or possibly twin 40mm, depending on the manifold and the turbo chosen.  True split pulse manifolds and turbos deserve proper split pulse wastegating.

When it comes to the MAC valve......I don't know.  I assume you will be trying to use the Haltech to do boost control.  I do not know what its capabilities are (whether it can run only one valve or if it can run two).  One is usually enough.  You are asking for high power levels, which means boost control quality will be important.  Using an external gate at least allows you to use a multi-port MAC valve to apply control to both sides of the diaphragm.  There's more reading in that for you too.

You can get EFRs with internal or external wastegate exhaust housings.  The recirc valve is typically built into the compressor housing.  No, there is no "inbuilt" MAC valve.  The MAC valve is part of the boost controller setup, not the turbo (on any turbo).

I don't know specifically which housings are available for the 8374, because I'm not interested in putting a turbo that big on my car so I don't waste my time looking into it.  But there would have to be ~1000 posts on that turbo on these forums just in the last 6 months.  So there is plenty of info just on here, let alone on the BW website.

  • Like 1

The Borg Warner EFR DO come with a boost MAC solenoid, bolted to the compressor cover. It works well. In addition to the inbuilt Bov too.

IWG can be hit or miss with the EFR's. If in doubt, go external which has been proven to work great 100% of the time.

An 8374 will beat a GTX3582. Especially a GT3582. Consider a 7670, because that can and will do 370kw. (it has done up to 465 on E85 on some 2.5's)

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

The Borg Warner EFR DO come with a boost MAC solenoid, bolted to the compressor cover. It works well. In addition to the inbuilt Bov too.

Cool.  Although I'm not sure why they bother.  Would that only be a typical 3 port valve to use with the internal WG?  I can't see someone with super tricky boost control on an ext WG wanting it.

  • Like 1

Eh it works as well as any 3 port mac valve. I used it on my setup when an official MAC product decided to rattle the center piston loose entirely. Can't say it was good or bad or any different really, but it exists and its something people are gonna need for boost control anyway.

Mounting a boost solenoid somewhere is always a headache of mild proportions, being able to bolt it directly to the compressor housing is nice enough. Makes for one hell of a short hose to the solenoid too, which is supplied. One less thing to worry about really

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...