Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are some best recommended machine shop and engine builders for RB Motors. Need some names and contacts to start researching, ones I found on this site seems outdated.

Looking for ones that can also do CNC head porting.

Edited by etang789

In Oz or Honkers?

In Oz, Lewis Race engines in Adelaide would be a good choice.  As would Knight Engines, but he is usually flat out booked for a year or so in advance.

I'm betting that if you did just a little googling you would find the 6 or 8 highly recommended shops in the eastern states, and the one or two really good ones in Perth too.

As for CNC head porting.....waste of time unless you're wanting to do multiple heads (like dozens) and want to bring the per unit cost down.  If you want the best port job, you still need to finish a CNC job by hand, because CNC porting has to be quite conservative to avoid problems caused by core shift etc etc.

JHH, CNC heads.. Very sex

Or there's PMC, one man shop and he hand ports but it looks as though a robot is doing it (he is that good). Has built many race winning engines for WTAC.

Depends how deep your pockets are.

On 8/5/2018 at 8:21 AM, GTSBoy said:

In Oz or Honkers?

In Oz, Lewis Race engines in Adelaide would be a good choice.  As would Knight Engines, but he is usually flat out booked for a year or so in advance.

I'm betting that if you did just a little googling you would find the 6 or 8 highly recommended shops in the eastern states, and the one or two really good ones in Perth too.

As for CNC head porting.....waste of time unless you're wanting to do multiple heads (like dozens) and want to bring the per unit cost down.  If you want the best port job, you still need to finish a CNC job by hand, because CNC porting has to be quite conservative to avoid problems caused by core shift etc etc.

Looking for a shop either in Australia or New Zealand.

Thanks! will talk to Lewis Race engines and Knight Engines.

Yea I searched a few but some information seems outdated no longer in business or no recent job references thats why Im asking here.

On 8/7/2018 at 3:16 PM, etang789 said:

Looking for a shop either in Australia or New Zealand.

Thanks! will talk to Lewis Race engines and Knight Engines.

Yea I searched a few but some information seems outdated no longer in business or no recent job references thats why Im asking here.

In NZ Robbie from RIPS has a rock solid track record building his own and customer's engines. Does a lot of exporting - builds cars for English Premier League players (so not bargain basement builds) but worth getting a quote:

https://www.ripsracing.com/

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...