Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 minutes ago, R_34 said:

Here you go : G30-770.

 

Les turbo garrett G series - Page 4 G30-770comp-map

Legend!  Where did you get that, if you don't mind me asking - feel free to PM.  I just want to be sure it's definitely the right map for the right turbo before I nail it down.

Also, looks like I estimated it's place in the list perfectly haha

Edited by Lithium
1 minute ago, R_34 said:

I got it from ATP when they were updating their site with the g30/35 to come.

I managed to save all the compressor and turbine map from their site for the g30 and g35 but the g30-660.

Well played - any chance of the turbine maps? 

2 minutes ago, R_34 said:

I'll post everything i managed to squeeze out from the ATP website in a few hours.

Much appreciated, sir - maybe throw it in the Garrett G-series thread if that's ok

22 hours ago, R_34 said:

Here you go : G30-770.

Cheers again for this, in my excitement I forgot to update the list... which is now looking quite healthy.  It fit quite nicely in the placeholder I had set aside for it :)



image.thumb.png.2c7763fcbddabfa9705bc6f5d3338cfe.png

 

Edited by Lithium
  • Thanks 1

It'd be unreal if their response stayed "comparable" for size with most other turbos as well, the G30-770 (which would be G7160 in Borg Warner naming) is pretty much the equivalent of EFR8374 flow in an EFR7163 size which would be INSANE if it spooled like an EFR7163, though while there still aren't lots of results out there it seems like the G25-660 is probably laggier than the larger EFR7163 - so it'd be a safe bet that the G30-770 is going to be significantly laggier than what you'd normally expect for the wheel sizes.

They are still WAY smaller than other turbos which flow similar so I kind of hold hope that it will make up some ground there.  

On 6/25/2019 at 3:22 PM, R_34 said:

Here you go : G30-770.

 

Les turbo garrett G series - Page 4 G30-770comp-map

What interests me is their bearing arrangements.  How they work, how long they last (high speeds required to push that air mass), and what Garrett will do (or not do) to make them economically serviceable.  Those who ran the early spec GT series with non serviceable BB cores and temperature intolerant plastic bearing cages were left to buy a new unit rather than rebuild.

17 hours ago, Dale FZ1 said:

What interests me is their bearing arrangements.  How they work, how long they last (high speeds required to push that air mass), and what Garrett will do (or not do) to make them economically serviceable.  Those who ran the early spec GT series with non serviceable BB cores and temperature intolerant plastic bearing cages were left to buy a new unit rather than rebuild.

No expert on this side of things but I'll point out some things which may or may be naive points:

- High speeds required to push that air mass: They don't spin any faster than any other previous Garretts of the same kind of wheel size.  The G3076 spins at similar turbine rpm to flow ~80lb/min as the GT3076R would to push 53lb/min.   Just out of entertainment's sake, I checked it out and the G3076 can manage the GT3076R's max rated flow (at it's 145,000rpm compressor speed limit) at as low as ~70,000rpm in the right situation

- I am pretty sure that since the GTX series they've used metal bearing cages and dual ceramic ball bearing cores

- Non-serviceble cores - Is this any different to any of the other major name ball bearing core manufacturers?

 

Edited by Lithium
1 minute ago, discopotato03 said:

I think I saw a post on Honda Tech saying something about Garrett altering the G30 turbine trim to be something like the NS111 60mm turbine . I'd have to check but I think they were 76 trim.

 

It's the same trim as the conventional GT30 turbine, I said in my first post about the G series turbos that the 30 and 35 are the same size 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...