Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

So what are you using to connect it? USB-serial adapter?

My mate has the proper Alexi software and plug in adapter to the USB.

It’s a “razor performance” USB adaptor or something, I’ll ask.

 But yeh, it’s all the official software and all.

USB-Serial adapters are famously a pain in the arse.  There are basically 2 or 3 chipsets in all of them.  Some of them just do not work with different peripherals.  Others work fine.  I have no knowledge of what works with the PFC.

Assuming you can get the converter to play ball with Windows, the PFC software will want to be talking to a particular COM port.  You will have to check that in the software's config and then you will want to see (in device manager) that that COM port is actually being provided by the adapter.  Sometimes you get silly shit, like the software only allows you to choose between COM1 to 3, but the adapter only provides COM15 or something equally stupid.  Sometimes there are ways to fix that sort of problem, sometimes it's just a case of trying another adapter.

  • Thanks 1
7 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

USB-Serial adapters are famously a pain in the arse.  There are basically 2 or 3 chipsets in all of them.  Some of them just do not work with different peripherals.  Others work fine.  I have no knowledge of what works with the PFC.

Assuming you can get the converter to play ball with Windows, the PFC software will want to be talking to a particular COM port.  You will have to check that in the software's config and then you will want to see (in device manager) that that COM port is actually being provided by the adapter.  Sometimes you get silly shit, like the software only allows you to choose between COM1 to 3, but the adapter only provides COM15 or something equally stupid.  Sometimes there are ways to fix that sort of problem, sometimes it's just a case of trying another adapter.

Thanks heaps, we will have a look into it and I’ll post if we figure it out ??

Google "PaulR33 Power FC FAQ'

There may be something in there. As per above, I think the Apexi softwear you have to manually choose the COM port, but FC Edit I know has an auto function to work out which COM port is being used. However this does not always guarantee it will work

Generally it will default to COM1 but if you are running windows, you should be able to go to hardware manager and see the USB to serial device there and it will either tell you what COM port is set in the properties or allow you to choose one

Be aware that the outdated PS/2 cables that Power FC's use are tempremental at times and I have seen them play up if they have been bent, squashed or mistreated. If you have a handcontroller and it works, either something to do with the cable/box for connecting to the PC is stuffed, or you have a hardware/setting problem with the PC.

As per above, some USB to serial adapters are terrible and some work flawlessly.

  • Thanks 1
26 minutes ago, 89CAL said:

Google "PaulR33 Power FC FAQ'

There may be something in there. As per above, I think the Apexi softwear you have to manually choose the COM port, but FC Edit I know has an auto function to work out which COM port is being used. However this does not always guarantee it will work

Generally it will default to COM1 but if you are running windows, you should be able to go to hardware manager and see the USB to serial device there and it will either tell you what COM port is set in the properties or allow you to choose one

Be aware that the outdated PS/2 cables that Power FC's use are tempremental at times and I have seen them play up if they have been bent, squashed or mistreated. If you have a handcontroller and it works, either something to do with the cable/box for connecting to the PC is stuffed, or you have a hardware/setting problem with the PC.

As per above, some USB to serial adapters are terrible and some work flawlessly.

Sweet, thanks heaps for the info ??

We’ve used thesame set up to tune 2 bother power FC’s (brothers r33 and our track car).

ill have a look at paulr33’s stuff now ☺️

Using an FC Hako I end up having to fk around with the com ports nearly every time. It eventually works but it comes down to me remembering which USB port it's supposed to go into and a combination of opening the app after connecting or connecting while the app is open or connecting before ignition on and waiting for the moons to align. But it does eventually connect...fortunately there's rarely someone behind me at the servo when changing tunes over with it.

  • Thanks 1

UPDATE!

So I pinched my brothers controller.

when I plug it in, the revs spike a little bit.

on the controller, twice the logo popped up then turned off, once it went through to the menu then cut out again.

the ecu works, just having issue connecting it to anything.

 

PLEASE HELP!

i don’t want to think I got ripped on a shit ecu

1 hour ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Does your brother have a Power FC as well? Try swapping it over. Better to repair or replace your ecu before you waste the tuner's time (and your dollars).

He does, we have 3 in total, one in our track car, one in my brothers and my faulty one.

weve plugged the track car one in, tuned it our selves and it ran great.

just wondering if there’s any way around the fault or a way of fixing it.

the software and plug we used worked fine on the other 2 FC’s.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...