Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My tuner just did some before and after pulls with HKS Vcam and shared on his Facebook.  I would like to share that here for those thinking about Vcam.

His car is still running on stock R32 turbos with steel turbine wheels.  The pulls were done on E60 ethanol mix.

https://www.facebook.com/houston.zauto/posts/1368728369930762

 

Edited by TXSquirrel
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475195-hks-vcam-before-and-after-on-r32/
Share on other sites

image002.jpg.f622681b2cabe2ce0325f1d96ad1733e.jpg

I extracted more info out of him, really hope he doesn't mind me posting this.  RPM across the top and load on the left.

Question for you folks about how camshaft degree translates into cam gear degree.  His HKS exhaust camshaft has a centerline of 110, and he gained across all RPM range by retarding his exhaust cam gear by 2 degrees.  My Tomei has a centerline of 115, to get the same effect how should I adjust my cam gear?

Yeah the difference from 3000 to 5000 rpm is astonishing.  My tuner made his pulls on stock R32 turbos, so with any decent aftermarket turbos the improvement should be more pronounced.  He has actually pushed hard on those stock turbos and intends to blow them up as he has a pair of 2530 waiting to go on, but they are surprisingly tough.

When you say on vs off, do you mean activated vs not activated? or optimal vs sitting at base conditions?


Its still a slightly misleading comparison as your off isn't going to be as optimized as a normal dumb cam. 
Still, I wants it.

 

  • 3 months later...
On ‎10‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 1:26 PM, r32-25t said:

44D1F837-CFAD-4BE9-9F56-7CBFBF112A88.thumb.jpeg.6da56bba0d835cbf55f7c97858eab354.jpegthat is a difference with vcam turned on and off my car, this is a very conservative 98 tune before we swapped to e85

But look at all that top end power it lost! That 1.5kW is a huge price to pay... :10_wink: :4_joy:  

  • Haha 2
On 10/25/2018 at 11:55 PM, TXSquirrel said:

Question for you folks about how camshaft degree translates into cam gear degree.  His HKS exhaust camshaft has a centerline of 110, and he gained across all RPM range by retarding his exhaust cam gear by 2 degrees.  My Tomei has a centerline of 115, to get the same effect how should I adjust my cam gear?

Camshaft and gear degrees are identical.  2° is 2°.

That may not answer your question.  And the lesson learned by retarding the HKS cam by 2° may not be applicable to your cam.  Those sorts of changes really come down to what effect the change has on the overlap of the in and ex lobes.  As your centrelines are so different, then it is quite likely that the overall profiles of your cams are quite different and you may end up with a different result.  You might need more retard, or possibly less, or possibly gain from a little advance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...