Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently have annoying misfire problems. The engine is RB30neo, after taking car to reputable tuner he replaced cas with secondhand cas , a coilpack, std fuel reg, fuel filter and said the fuel injectors are dirty and fuel filter was blocked.  So he road tuned car and said its better now.

Original issue was it running like a wrx for first 10mins, after that it was a rocket.

So now after it being at the workshop, it still starts like a wrx and now it has a strong misfire at 4k, right at the point it used to start breaking traction.

So i started it up and pulled one coil out at a time, cyl 3 and 5 not firing.  These coilpacks are brand new, have replaced them twice now.

So my question is what can cause cyl 3 and 5 to randomly not fire? Or are these splitfire coils fake copies?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475431-misfire-problems/
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

1. get a new tuner 

2. never seen fake splitfires

3.get your multimeter out and start continuity and voltage checking. Also inspect loom for damage.

Yep that workshop gone to shit for sure.. not happy..

This morning i tried again, and cyl 3 and 5 dead, so i put 2 old coilpacks in and she ran sweet except heavy breakdown under load later when was hot.

So whats the chances of 3 brand new coilpacks failing on a cold start?

Loom is brand new from kudos, plugs new also..

What about the cas or ecu, can they play these kind of games?

I dont really have a clue about multimeter testing.

CAS "might" be cooked and the ECU is unable to determine a home signal, i.e. 1x full revolution of the CAS to determine TDC.

This could affect your car starting, however without using any tools it might be hard to diagnose.

 

Maybe try record your PowerFC hand controller with a GoPro or phone and see if there's a RPM when the CAS is rotated OR the car is cranked.

19 hours ago, AngryRB said:

Yep that workshop gone to shit for sure.. not happy..

This morning i tried again, and cyl 3 and 5 dead, so i put 2 old coilpacks in and she ran sweet except heavy breakdown under load later when was hot.

So whats the chances of 3 brand new coilpacks failing on a cold start?

Loom is brand new from kudos, plugs new also..

What about the cas or ecu, can they play these kind of games?

I dont really have a clue about multimeter testing.

The coilpack harness might be new but i bet the main engine loom is not. I would start looking where is passes the exhaust, where it passes through the firewall and around the ECU header plug.

Youtube how to continuity test with a multimeter, its an excellent skill to have and difficulty level is 2/10.

1 hour ago, mr_rbman said:

Sounds like a similar issue i've had...

You running a Z32?!

Yep a z32, today again cyl 5 so i switched it with cyl 6 coil and just like that all 6 firing...

Will start looking into the multimeter idea and the cas test.. 

 

4 hours ago, AngryRB said:

Is this plug helping? Last set was a BKR7E that had a split in the electrode

20181123_094525.jpg

20181123_094548.jpg

That's a hot plug man, no way would I use that in a higher boost application (or any boost for that matter)

  • Like 1
On 11/23/2018 at 7:49 AM, AngryRB said:

Is this plug helping? Last set was a BKR7E that had a split in the electrode

 

 

 

On 11/23/2018 at 7:49 AM, AngryRB said:

Is this plug helping? Last set was a BKR7E that had a split in the electrode

 

20181123_094548.jpg

Is it just me or is that plug gap huuuuuge?!?!?!

  • 2 months later...

Small update, i changed the plugs back to BKR7E and she has all the power back with no misfire's... 

The issue still remains, that is i start it and its on 5 cylinders until i drive up the road and load it up in second gear , then it seems to clear up and runs perfect.. except for it usual jerkiness on very light throttles which i assume is the camshafts or maybe tailshaft slop..

So what could it be that clears up with some load applied, could injectors be need8ng cleaned after 10k and using ethanol? Diesnt ethanol clean shit???

Tuners explains it as it must be dirty injectors but after he put shit plugs in not sure if hes right...

Coolant is not going down and fuel economy is good, power is good, its just cold start on 5cylinders till loaded up.

Edited by AngryRB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...