Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After 4 years at about 350kw I went in to my tuner after I installed my new intercooler to get a checkup.

All 6 cylinders had awesome compression and the dyno still showed 354kw atw (lower conversion method used as well).

Looking at the shops workers car with the same head setup and turbos using E30 he was getting 437KW...a big jump in response.

It convinced me this E thing is worth the investment - now to order some Speedflow 200 series lines.  How long are the stock lines in an R32 I cant find anything about that.  I know the car is 4500mm.

So I was going to get 13m should be enough for 2 feed lines and 1 return.  Surely someone has noted it before :)

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475648-r32-gtr-fuel-line-length/
Share on other sites

You don't need twin feeds.

Distance isn't even 4.5m as the tank isn't at the back of the car and the rail isn't at the front.
best way to do it is to modify and use the Hicas lines as they're right there, or you can do what i did and be dodgy and run the -6 lines in the old brackets for that, they fit right in and tuck up really well actually.
I think i used 9m of hose and i also got a water feed for the turbo and a power steering line out of it.

Depends what you want to do. 

I have a 8an feed and return. I don't think twin feed is necessary. I bought 2 4.5m lengths as that's what aeroflow had. I had some left over, as sneaky Pete said you end up using it for other things.

Better to have more than not enough. It's never gonna be exact.

Proper way to do it would be to run hard lines TBH, less risk with debris strikes from under the car.
Though as said I was lazy and it turned out pretty damn good so i wasn't too worried.

 

P1150624.thumb.JPG.ad65f26004f4e3c63ef88d2eb477f1a8.JPG

 

4 hours ago, WantGTR said:

Depends what you want to do. 

I have a 8an feed and return. I don't think twin feed is necessary.

Given the guy with the same turbos is only making 437kw i'd say -8's not needed in this case.
people have made 400kw on stock lines with E85 and -6 is something like 50% bigger compared to that

11 minutes ago, sneakey pete said:

Proper way to do it would be to run hard lines TBH, less risk with debris strikes from under the car.
Though as said I was lazy and it turned out pretty damn good so i wasn't too worried.

 

P1150624.thumb.JPG.ad65f26004f4e3c63ef88d2eb477f1a8.JPG

 

Given the guy with the same turbos is only making 437kw i'd say -8's not needed in this case.
people have made 400kw on stock lines with E85 and -6 is something like 50% bigger compared to that

Agree. Hardline would be better. Would be a pain in the ass to do on the floor in the garage neatly.

I ran mine the same as yours basically. 6an ID isn't much bigger than the stock lines. 8an ID is about 10.5mm inside. 

If you're doing it, better to go bigger. The difference in cost of hose and fittings is negligible. Get ready to spend a few thousand.

You will need a rail, fpr, different fuel filter/s, possibly surge tank with multiple pumps.

Will give you plenty of head room. Sort of wish I went 10an but 8an will be good for 1000hp or so I think.

At least you wont have to touch the fuel setup again because if you upgrade it's pretty much bin everything.

  • Like 1

Yeh plan is to get a Frenchys performance Garage In Tank surge tank with 2 E85 pumps.  This means I do not get any compliance issues having a surge tank and no smells.

ID 1350x injectors

Link G4+ with ethonal content sensor (already purchased) so good bye HKS F-Con you have done me well.

Fuel lines 2 feed 1 return so I am future proofed and dont have to worry about fuel lines been old or ever again haha.

Edited by Stixbnr32

That kit only has a single fitting for feed. Y pipe is in the tank.

If, for some reason, you must have a twin feed rail (see topic on that from a few days ago also) run a -8 feed and Y pipe it into -6 in the bay.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...