Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From what i can tell, most of us have a plans up our sleeve to buy new (old) cars and sell cars that we have right now. 
I know that most car people have at least one of these plans in their heads. What is your plan?

I'll go first:

A lot of my car actions are dictated by the Melbourne housing market. To buy a decent inner city house (read; hipsterville), i'm going to need to offload at least 3 of our cars (i don't have $2M or more, so more than 2 cars is a non starter).

Potentially sell the Silver and Blue GTRs in 3-5 years. 
Sell both wagons to other people. 
Maybe sell the race car, depending on what i feel like (it's not worth shit, so it can stay or go). 

If I clear out the driveway, i'll be looking to add an E61 M5 (the wagons with a V10) to the house. 

IMG_5183.JPG

KR4 and LM Friends.jpg

E61.jpg

20180310_100748.jpg

  • Like 1

Would like to grab another Skyline (33 GTR) before the prices go even higher. Would also like to get some NISMO parts for the current fleet. Could flip the current lot for profit but would end up regretting it!

  • Like 1

Sell my S14a and buy a Megane RS275

Cant afford anything GT-R these days and not willing to pay top dollar for below average cars with bubbled dashboards, rust, accident damage, unknown km and 20+ years of human slime covering the interior

  • Like 1

Unlike steve85, ive invested in property for the long term rather than cars. Happy living in the outer burbs (scumville) thrashing a gtst and stagea around (fit right in) lol. I have thoughts of buying a nice hi end bmw or merc but then crunch the numbers and think i should just buy another house. Can live the high roller life a bit later on in life i suppose.

Once the track bug that has bitten me goes away, i may move on the gtst and get a more modern mid spec bm. Cant fathom tracking a modern car worth $ so the gtst stays for now.

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, profaine said:

Could flip the current lot for profit but would end up regretting it!

This regret is what i'm worried about. The Silver one, not so much as it shouldn't be driven or modded. But the LM. Yeah, i don't know.

  • Like 1
16 minutes ago, junkie said:

Cant afford anything GT-R these days and not willing to pay top dollar for below average cars with bubbled dashboards, rust, accident damage, unknown km and 20+ years of human slime covering the interior

You don't trust Skyline GTR sellers? They know what they got. Hahaha. 

As the owner's we set the price to the market and obviously with USA they will be left with no choice but to pay to play. Same with the prospective buyers here, Hong Kong, Canada etc. The market is red-hot and given the diminishing supply of GT-R's it's a no brainer that they will be at 6 figures soon enough.

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, BakemonoRicer said:

As the owner's we set the price to the market and obviously with USA they will be left with no choice but to pay to play. Same with the prospective buyers here, Hong Kong, Canada etc. The market is red-hot and given the diminishing supply of GT-R's it's a no brainer that they will be at 6 figures soon enough.

That's still speculative though. It's only based on historic evidence and could potentially go wrong for those of us who are looking to make a few bucks. Not that i disagree mind you, but you never know.

My theory is these are the "muscle cars" of our era. I'll pay good money for GTR, but your V8 HSV, Ford or even C63? I'll give you five dollars.

here we go... another pointless GT-R price projection thread... you guys should just meet up in person and jerk each other off :P

 

More on topic... due to family commitments we'll be selling the wifes Eunos Roadster and getting something 4-door, atm looking at either a early 2000's Caldina GT-Four or Mercedes E320.

Eventually will sell the Skyline track hack, and seriously considering getting something like an Excel cup car just for fun.

  • Like 3
here we go... another pointless GT-R price projection thread... you guys should just meet up in person and jerk each other off [emoji14]
 
More on topic... due to family commitments we'll be selling the wifes Eunos Roadster and getting something 4-door, atm looking at either a early 2000's Caldina GT-Four or Mercedes E320.
Eventually will sell the Skyline track hack, and seriously considering getting something like an Excel cup car just for fun.
Thanks for pushingthe thread back on topic.

If you're in Melbourne (or elsewhere i guess) and are serious about a racecar, I'd be keen to see the Audi go to a good home. It's just wasting away with me. PM me if you like. [emoji16]
From what i can tell, most of us have a plans up our sleeve to buy new (old) cars and sell cars that we have right now. 
I know that most car people have at least one of these plans in their heads. What is your plan?

I'll go first:
A lot of my car actions are dictated by the Melbourne housing market. To buy a decent inner city house (read; hipsterville), i'm going to need to offload at least 3 of our cars (i don't have $2M or more, so more than 2 cars is a non starter).
Potentially sell the Silver and Blue GTRs in 3-5 years. 
Sell both wagons to other people. 
Maybe sell the race car, depending on what i feel like (it's not worth shit, so it can stay or go). 

If I clear out the driveway, i'll be looking to add an E61 M5 (the wagons with a V10) to the house. 
IMG_5183.thumb.JPG.f13990ce1fc30937ff1b7d52cf864d00.JPG
1669978440_KR4andLMFriends.thumb.jpg.e818501876082510305e4ea0513d8a91.jpg
E61.thumb.jpg.9933a40bb289b8911d303dea898a43c4.jpg
20180310_100748.thumb.jpg.92d7782b2bc7a42cd17a7633b43fbfb6.jpg
Hey Steve my evil plan is to buy your gt-r lm spec when you sell it so I can stalk your Pal Eric in W.A. I'll keep the Beyond Blue gtst so I have a Godzilla/Godzookey look in the driveway to scare away the bogans. Double dinosaur rather than double dragon.
  • Like 1
Hey Steve my evil plan is to buy your gt-r lm spec when you sell it so I can stalk your Pal Eric in W.A. I'll keep the Beyond Blue gtst so I have a Godzilla/Godzookey look in the driveway to scare away the bogans. Double dinosaur rather than double dragon.
This sounds like a solid plan! [emoji16][emoji23]

Next move is to flick the Stagea off for...something, undecided at the moment. It'll have to be big, 4WD and able to tow a lot. Hopefully the Rivian EVs come to fruition so I have an electric option.

Leaf will be traded for...something. Maybe 62kWh Leaf or even a Porsche Taycan if they're available at the time.

I've also picked up a stock NZ-new Honda S2000 as a fun car/long term speculative investment. Since I do my own wrenching I wanted something fun that'd be reliable enough to not need a lot of work, and simple enough to fix if it does break.

I'm mortgage-free now, which is weird but awesome, but looking to buy a decent chunk of land, so the Stagea and Leaf replacement will be determined by how much land and how far out of town it is. In the meantime I'm saving like mad.

  • Like 1

Loving my 330i for the commute. Its super easy to drive and has a little bit of punch.

My Bora wont sell and its too good to part out, so that's likely to become a registered track car (rego cause we have no decent tower.)

We have a CX7 which is likely to be sold soon to make way for a new CX9, having never owned a brand new car before I am a little excited about this. It will be leased through my work (financier to be decided if you know anybody.)

Then in the next few years I'll get an M3. Likely an E92 with the V8 (or maybe a new Supra!). M3's have always been a dream and while I absolutely still love JDM I love the comfort and feel of German and they are easier to commute in than a GTR (IMO).

  • Like 2
26 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

If everything falls into place this year then a 996 turbo is on the cards 

Yes yes yes!! I'd love a 996. Though for my commute I'd probs lean towards a 4S or something. 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...