Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 10/06/2019 at 12:26 PM, sneakey pete said:

Don't think you'd be at a power level where a 76mm plazmaman would be overwhelmed, didn't have any IAT issues with mine doing 700 to the hubs last month. Might make packaging and purchase price a bit nicer

I like a bit of overkill, also the car will be abused at the track. So I suspect IATs will climb pretty quickly.

Where air density matters, cooler is better. 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Keeping the GTX flame alive, nearly 1.3bar in 3rd @ 4000rpm on 98RON and pretty low timing. She's a bit rich, but we'll get there. Haven't quite got the IAT compensation table right :)

Also found out there's a Quick Spool function with Halalkebab Elite, I like it.

image.thumb.png.49d5aadb7155d73e63d00c77df0b179a.png

  • Like 2
16 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Keeping the GTX flame alive, nearly 1.3bar in 3rd @ 4000rpm on 98RON and pretty low timing. She's a bit rich, but we'll get there. Haven't quite got the IAT compensation table right :)

Also found out there's a Quick Spool function with Halalkebab Elite, I like it.

 

Nice, that is decent!  

Legotech doesn't have charge temp estimation?

Curious to know what "quick spool" means in this instance, what kind of strategy are they using?

25 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Legotech doesn't have charge temp estimation?

Curious to know what "quick spool" means in this instance, what kind of strategy are they using?

I don't believe it does, nor have I had such experience. I generally just trim fuel based on IAT but that could be an ancient way of doing things.

Quick Spool feature, pretty much just sets the DC on 100% before you reach within say 50kPA of your targetted boost threshold before it accesses the base DC table followed by enabling closed loop boost control.

It's a bit hard to get it to not spike, just need a bit more time on the street and dyno.

1 minute ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Quick Spool feature, pretty much just sets the DC on 100% before you reach within say 50kPA of your targetted boost threshold before it accesses the base DC table followed by enabling closed loop boost control.

Ahh ok, pretty standard - just never seen it called "quick spool" before.  Definitely a handy strategy for bringing it up near target quickly, slightly early "cracking" of the gate definitely has a tangible affect on spool.

2 hours ago, Lithium said:

Ahh ok, pretty standard - just never seen it called "quick spool" before.  Definitely a handy strategy for bringing it up near target quickly, slightly early "cracking" of the gate definitely has a tangible affect on spool.

hahah well Kebabtech literally calls it just that LOL

5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

hahah well Kebabtech literally calls it just that LOL

To be fair it pretty much does what it says, so can't exactly knock it :)   I was just amused as I was wondering what witchcraft they may have devised and it turned out to be a standard kind of thing that the setting usually has a much more mundane sounding name haha.

So how long before you put it on a dyno and send it? It's definitely looking like a potent combo, and not sure if you've seen the kind of numbers people are getting out of these turbos - but it could surprise some people 

3 minutes ago, Lithium said:

So how long before you put it on a dyno and send it? It's definitely looking like a potent combo, and not sure if you've seen the kind of numbers people are getting out of these turbos - but it could surprise some people 

Not too sure, been so busy as I've started a new job, finished renos at home, trying to spin up a new e-comm, etc. Car is definitely right down there on the priorities list.

I would like a new 100mm Plaz cooler first before I send it's mum and yeah been following Benchmark and having chats here and there with Ben and he's getting 400~440kW on these turbos (depending on rear housing). He did say he prefers the larger rear housings than the 0.83 divided ones.

 

  • 10 months later...

Thread revival :)

So finally was bothered to get my car on the dyno today, and results are pretty promising.

407kW with close to 2bar of boost, still having some small boost issues. 4 port solenoids are actually much harder to tune than expected. Needed to drop the solenoid frequency down to 16hz. Using the recommended 30hz was horrific, the car would overshoot into the moon. Initially the gate had a 1bar spring, however running a 0.5bar spring helped dramatically.

Shout out to Alex and the team at Birrong Automotive for letting me do r&d on my own shitbox. They do some wicked builds there and the worksmanship is amazing. If you need a serious built car, bring it there!

Will be back for round 2 when my Plazmaman cooler arrives, will try up the solenoid operating frequency too.

Forgot to set up the derived RPM so no RPM reading nor derived torque.

Logs off Kebabtech:

image.thumb.png.c14ca42d5e67d273d601608b70b4c072.png

 

Dyno sheet:

image.png.874db565455ac977a5b5f0b34c0ed389.png

  • Like 2

Looking a bit deeper into the data, the GM open body IAT sensor, still doesn't read fast enough. After I backed off, you can see the real IAT temperatures.

It peaked at 57 degrees C (for you flat earth Americans that's 135 degrees F), chilling down the charge temp will definitely net that extra power quite easily.

Also @Lithium you might be interested :) 

image.thumb.png.8ab85e9681afe1c83347672bd05e70d1.png

 

Base Ignition table

image.thumb.png.866eb142ddba94a033e6e81bb94366f3.png

Compensation table (yes it looks a but ugly, but will linearise it later)

image.png.897a6c0a5cfc3733f59f94e1f24b7b27.png

Well, it's as fast as you're gunna get, isn't it? It is always going to lag the real temperature if that happens to be changing as boost increases, intercooler heats up and rpm is changing by several hundred per second. As long as +/-10°C isn't going to kill anything, you should be OK.

And....another significant factor. The intercooler stores heat. When you load it up under a boost run then back off, the heat in the cooler transfers into the air coming through. You have a lot less air coming through when you back off, so it is reasonable to expect the core to drop a bit more heat into each unit of air and thus raise the temp of that air up very close to the core's temp, for those first second or so after you come off the hammer.

  • Like 1
12 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Well, it's as fast as you're gunna get, isn't it? It is always going to lag the real temperature if that happens to be changing as boost increases, intercooler heats up and rpm is changing by several hundred per second. As long as +/-10°C isn't going to kill anything, you should be OK.

And....another significant factor. The intercooler stores heat. When you load it up under a boost run then back off, the heat in the cooler transfers into the air coming through. You have a lot less air coming through when you back off, so it is reasonable to expect the core to drop a bit more heat into each unit of air and thus raise the temp of that air up very close to the core's temp, for those first second or so after you come off the hammer.

That's also very true, good way of explaining it - thanks for that!

However, I am confident there's a bit more in with a better FMIC. I've already ordered a Plazmaman Pro core 2x weeks ago, but there's a big backlog (was hoping to get it before the dyno day but nope  :( )

Oh, I'm not arguing against putting a bigger core in it, or otherwise improving the cooling power. Go for your life on that. Just pointing out that I don't think a half second of continuing temperature rise after you back off is all the fault of the "slow" IAT sensor.

  • Like 1
16 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Looking a bit deeper into the data, the GM open body IAT sensor, still doesn't read fast enough. After I backed off, you can see the real IAT temperatures.

It peaked at 57 degrees C (for you flat earth Americans that's 135 degrees F), chilling down the charge temp will definitely net that extra power quite easily.

Also @Lithium you might be interested :) 

 

 

Base Ignition table

image.thumb.png.866eb142ddba94a033e6e81bb94366f3.png

Compensation table (yes it looks a but ugly, but will linearise it later)

image.png.897a6c0a5cfc3733f59f94e1f24b7b27.png

Nice, missed the tag initially sorry!     Hope you can iron out the boost control, holding it higher up high could deliver some solid numbers - not that it's shabby now :)

So with Haltech, is that correction table basically added to the base table?  So 7000rpm and 250kpaA it's running around 26deg timing on eth?

 

  • Like 1
14 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Nice, missed the tag initially sorry!     Hope you can iron out the boost control, holding it higher up high could deliver some solid numbers - not that it's shabby now :)

So with Haltech, is that correction table basically added to the base table?  So 7000rpm and 250kpaA it's running around 26deg timing on eth?

 

I believe from the data, the boost behaviour is due to the increase in IATs. I do have an IAT correction table which adds an extra 1% every 10 degrees the IAT climbs (probably not enough). 

And yes, that's how the Kebabtech works. You have a base ignition table and you add a correction/compensation based on ethanol. What you see in that table is when E85 = 100%. There's another table where you can adjust the blend too.

If you look at my dashboard view, second column 2nd row that's the actual timing, and 2nd column 3rd row is the base timing.

I'm confident I'll get it to that unicorn 600hp mark for internet bragging rights ?

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...