Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

 

Just FYI

 

The 2018 Infiniti Red Sport Q60 with 400 ponys is a bargain at $59,000 when a few people in here purchased there G35/37 for $30,000 and only got 300hp

And tuning is happening in Oz

 

A Facebook page is up about Infiniti Australia...

 

Just Fyi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/476953-a-new-400hp-infiniti-q60rs-59000/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Leroy Peterson said:
On 5/10/2019 at 5:07 PM, mlr said:
Yeap new and reliable vs ......not

Which one is which??

The Infiniti cost $60k, even adding another $10k that's only $70k to spend, what does that money buy.

A 10 year old GTR for around $75k, but would you, I personally wouldn't touch a cheap 10 year old GTR with a 10 foot barge pole.

Those things cost your kidneys when they break.

The Infiniti cost $60k, even adding another $10k that's only $70k to spend, what does that money buy.
A 10 year old GTR for around $75k, but would you, I personally wouldn't touch a cheap 10 year old GTR with a 10 foot barge pole.
Those things cost your kidneys when they break.
I wouldn't touch either, personally.
Q60 ain't gonna be cheap when it breaks either, depending on warranty conditions.

I assume resale value gonna plummet on Q60 too, going as new cars do, while GTR got a pretty strong secondhand market for 2010 and newer.
43 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

I wouldn't touch either, personally.
Q60 ain't gonna be cheap when it breaks either, depending on warranty conditions.

I assume resale value gonna plummet on Q60 too, going as new cars do, while GTR got a pretty strong secondhand market for 2010 and newer.

Flip before end of warranty, easy.

I'm not saying a GTR is a bad buy, I'm saying buying from the bottom of the barrel could be a expensive endevour.

Expensive cars that are being sold at the lower end of the price scale makes my spidey senses tingle.

Opinions may vary 

I have had my Q60RS for a 1 1/2 years and there has been nothing wrong with my car... 

I’m not too sure where you guys are getting this information from, I know in the forum in America Q50/60 there have been some problems but not my car

 You can buy a 400Hp car without any tuning problems... why not !!

 

 

 

 

On 5/10/2019 at 5:54 AM, wizlb said:

 

Just FYI

 

The 2018 Infiniti Red Sport Q60 with 400 ponys is a bargain at $59,000 when a few people in here purchased there G35/37 for $30,000 and only got 300hp

And tuning is happening in Oz

 

A Facebook page is up about Infiniti Australia...

 

Just Fyi

The 1995 R33 GTS-T with 450hp is a bargain at 13k...when a few people here purchased their Q60 for $59k and only got 400hp

And tuning is happening in Oz!

1 hour ago, Birds said:

The 1995 R33 GTS-T with 450hp is a bargain at 13k...when a few people here purchased their Q60 for $59k and only got 400hp

And tuning is happening in Oz!

A 25 year old modified car with questionable reliability came into this discussion how??

31 minutes ago, mlr said:

A 25 year old modified car with questionable reliability came into this discussion how??

Just seems ridiculous to compare a 60k car to a 30k one, so thought I'd join in the fun.

As for questionable reliability...well...10 years without missing a beat at that power level. But even new VWs are "questionable".

The other 45k saved ought to more than cover anything that goes wrong until the other cars drop to the same value ?

  • Thanks 1

It’s that time Bird..

I had a 96 GTST and spent to damn much to get my car to 400RWHP but it became to old and I had to trade it in

Then I got a 2005 GT350 or G35 and that was to slow but more reliable, but that car became to old too 

 

So, now I have a 400 HP car with damn near 400RWHP but no mods yet and you can get one for that price I posted ... if you can afford one buy one ...

but we all have our opinions and yours is valid to Bird 

4 hours ago, wizlb said:

It’s that time Bird..

I had a 96 GTST and spent to much damn money to get my car to 400rwhp but it became to old and I had to trade it in...

Then I got a 2005 GT350 or G35 and that was to slow but more reliable, but that car became to old too....

 

So, now I have a 400 HP car with damn near 400RWHP without any mods yet and you can get one of these for price I posted, buy it if you can afford one, buy one ...

but we all have our opinions and yours is valid to Bird ....

 

14 hours ago, wizlb said:

It’s that time Bird..

I had a 96 GTST and spent to damn much to get my car to 400RWHP but it became to old and I had to trade it in

Then I got a 2005 GT350 or G35 and that was to slow but more reliable, but that car became to old too 

 

So, now I have a 400 HP car with damn near 400RWHP but no mods yet and you can get one for that price I posted ... if you can afford one buy one ...

but we all have our opinions and yours is valid to Bird 

This Q60 was on E85!!!

 

 

9CB6DE3C-CC17-4C4D-B94E-E468870260F3.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...