Jump to content
SAU Community

Head Unit Install

Digdug154
 Share

Recommended Posts

Digdug154 Newbie

Digdug154

Posted
Posted

I'm trying to install a new head unit into my 92 GTST, I got the until in but I'm not getting anything from the speakers, I'm pretty sure I have it hooked up right but I read somewhere that the amp in the boot wont operate with a new head unit. I'm trying to avoid rewiring all of the speakers but I'm pretty new to the audio world and any help would be much appreciated. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477938-head-unit-install/
Share on other sites
Steve85 Mentor

Steve85

Posted
Posted
I'm trying to install a new head unit into my 92 GTST, I got the until in but I'm not getting anything from the speakers, I'm pretty sure I have it hooked up right but I read somewhere that the amp in the boot wont operate with a new head unit. I'm trying to avoid rewiring all of the speakers but I'm pretty new to the audio world and any help would be much appreciated. 
Sorry to hear you're having troubles.

We're probably going to need more to go on than what you have here. A couple of pics and a hand drwwn diagram would be awesome and also the make and model of your amp and head unit.

Are you getting power to both the amp and head unit right now? And if so what voltages do you see?
Digdug154 Newbie

Digdug154

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Steve85 said:

Sorry to hear you're having troubles.

We're probably going to need more to go on than what you have here. A couple of pics and a hand drwwn diagram would be awesome and also the make and model of your amp and head unit.

Are you getting power to both the amp and head unit right now? And if so what voltages do you see?

I have power at the head, unsure about the amp I will check it when I get home from my little trip. I have 12 volts and a 5v reference at the head. This is the reference I used to write the head unit. It's a lower model kenwood head unit. Not sure of the particular model right now. I ran into this issue then had to leave for a small work trip. 

Screenshot_20190726-061321_Drive.jpg

Edited by Digdug154
  • Like 1
Digdug154 Newbie

Digdug154

Posted
  • Author
Posted
35 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

There are wires that run from the console back to the amp. These can be made to connect to speakers instead.

But FWIW, just get the seats out of the car and put some new speaker cable in.

The stock working doesnt look too good I agree, but I'd  rather do that during winter when I dont want to drive this car. Right now I just want some tunes while I'm cruising this season 

Hcr32typem Enthusiast

Hcr32typem

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's possible the car has the "active speakers" still in the car? Then an aftermarket headunit wouldnt work with the system, since both front speakers and the rear speakers are controlled by individual amps.

The front speakers were an easy replacement, the rear amp can be bypassed pretty easily as well

Edited by Hcr32typem
Digdug154 Newbie

Digdug154

Posted
  • Author
Posted
16 hours ago, Hcr32typem said:

It's possible the car has the "active speakers" still in the car? Then an aftermarket headunit wouldnt work with the system, since both front speakers and the rear speakers are controlled by individual amps.

The front speakers were an easy replacement, the rear amp can be bypassed pretty easily as well

Yes it does have active speakers! How do I bypass those amps properly?

Hcr32typem Enthusiast

Hcr32typem

Posted
Posted
On 7/28/2019 at 6:26 AM, Digdug154 said:

Yes it does have active speakers! How do I bypass those amps properly?

The front speakers should be pretty straight forward the rear takes some cutting and splicing. I'm trying to find the guide I used to bypass the rear amp that runs both rear speakers.

Hcr32typem Enthusiast

Hcr32typem

Posted
Posted

Found the guide I used.

 

I used crimable caps to seal the wires together, left the rest of the plug intact so that I wouldnt have any potential crossed wires. Works fantastically.

I'm running 4x6 in the front and 9" in the back. They're just cheap Dual speakers (cheap American brand) but they sound fantastic compared to the originals whose membrane had disintegrated like 10 years ago haha

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Hcr32typem said:

saudering iron

Now, it's one thing for you Yanks to say "soddering iron" (when it is spelt soldering, and said with the L pronounced like in the word "older", by the original architects of the language, and us Aussies), but it is another thing entirely to spell it the way you weirdos say it! Did you make up the spelling "sauder", or is that actually how some/all of you write it also? If so, where the hell did it come from?


 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • soviet_merlin
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...