Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 23/08/2021 at 7:24 PM, Ben C34 said:

How many microns is the stainless filter? Just saying micron makes no sense.

Im actually not sure. I've never thought about it as it came with the car and I honestly never really cared that much until now.

I'm assuming it's 40 microns, but I am actually not sure. I'm investigating if I get a new mesh so I know for sure. Or if anyone has any other options on appropriate fuel filters. Definately something I am not ignoring now

Actually thinking about it logically, it could also just be the wideband sensor acting up...

I've heard they start to read lean as they wear out.... It's not overly old (about 18 months) and hasn't actually done all that much milage (2,000kms tops) but I guess it has had a hard life being on the track

Actually thinking about it logically, it could also just be the wideband sensor acting up...

I've heard they start to read lean as they wear out.... It's not overly old (about 18 months) and hasn't actually done all that much milage (2,000kms tops) but I guess it has had a hard life being on the track

I've had one for years (mounted near the cat, which is where they say to mount them, NOT the dump)

Wideband AFR is only one measurement, presumably injector ms has not changed.

I also had scenarios where as Ben is alluding to, one filter was blocked, and the previous one wasn't.

I.e Ryco into 25micron filter into the 10 micron filter buckets on the injectors themselves. One or more of these may be clogged/acting up and if your filters aren't fine enough, it'll be your injectors.

And if your filters are too fine, you'll be constantly changing them. Cars are fun. I noticed this pretty much any time I changed from 98 back to E85 I'd have this issue but it could easily be some clog in my system that gets stirred up from changing solvants and not a general problem affecting everyone :P

Just got the injectors back, there was no issue with them, they all flowed the same and the pattern looked good.

The fuel filter looked good. I'll probably pull the pump this weekend to check the sock.

However, I'm now 90% certain its a failed Wideband. The guys who did the install when I got the new ECU put in just swapped the old o2 sensor for the wideband. Might organise to get a new bung welded in before the cat. 

The mystery just got interesting. Pulled my wideband sensor and it actually doesn't make sense. I have a new Haltech WB1 yet the sensor in the engine bay is a LSU4.2 sensor. This may explain why the sensor always gave me some very weird readings...  

Not sure why someone would put this sensor in... Hopefully was just a mistake. Have ordered a new LSU4.9 sensor 

 

The fact that there is a sensor in the engine bay is alarming enough when it comes to widebands, but the 4.2 is more sensitive than the 4.9 in that aspect (apparently).

My 4.2(s) has lasted a very long time mounted in the specific manner they request to be, which is on a certain angle, and at least (!) 1 meter away from the exhaust manifold.

If it's in the dump pipe in the stock O2 location, in a dump, 20cm from a turbine housing, expect to be periodically replacing these.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

still waiting on my new wideband sensor. Sapresbox are taking forever, looks like they didnt have any stock in the country and mail is taking forever these days!  When it arrives i want to get a new bung welded in further along the dump pipe.

Ive been doing a few small jobs with the car since we are in lockdown anyway. Moved the oil cooler to a better position, got a taarks oil filter relocation kit to get the oil filter in a better position. 

Also ordered a 3qt Accusump that I want to pop in the boot. Was only $385 on Amazon (with no valve), went back to $450 shortly after i ordered. I'm thinking i will just run a manual valve rather than the electronic one.

  • 2 weeks later...

So got the new wideband, turned on the "auto tune" on the ecu and it was all looking good. However, I did strip a knock sensor and then started looking through the ecu. Watched a few hp academy videos and realised my ecu had a few glaring issues (such as the flex fuel sensor being disabled)

Anyway I lost a bit of faith in the tune after that as there were a lot of little issues (which may have been fine, but I didn't feel comfortable anymore).

Went to a new workshop, Glen at ESP was amazing, really nice bloke and I feel actually cared about getting the right result.

He did swap my knock sensors to the Bosch donut type sensors, I know it's not 100% needed, but it's cheap and adds a level of insurance. 

Also got a clutch switch put in for flat foot, rev match, launch control etc.

Car is running well and without ANY engine mods at all the car has gone from making 305kw atw at 25-20psi to now making 330kw are at 18psi... It's night and day different! Very very happy!

Scan23092021203301_001~2.jpg

Glad you spent sometime reviewing yourself, reading your thread again I am confused why the tuner would say the adaptronic modular has no can capability because it definatly does. Sounds like you have found someone with their head screwed on to support you rather than just sell another solution and fail to set it up properly.

Looks like it will be heaps of fun to drive.

  • 5 weeks later...

Some bittersweet news. Sold my skyline today. Got an offer I couldn't refuse :(

Am planning on getting either a F30 335i or F20 M135i to replace it.

Loved this car and love the community on here. Will be very sad without it!

  • Sad 4

So I'll be that guy - what was the offer? Given what you're replacing it with it gives a rough indication of course, but I'm sure many enquiring minds want to know what offers exist about now.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...