Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 minutes ago, BK said:

I don't know what cat he's running but the current 80mm Apexi super cats are 130cpi which is awesome.

They are also $1200 - $1400....

ouch.

Probably as awesome as their cat backs with 2.5" reducers inside.

Back on topic, I reckon with the de-cat his problems will go away, if not I think there's a "boost" rag somewhere in his pipe work. We've all been there before :D 

5 hours ago, Chrisko33 said:

Ok so the car has been chucked on the Dyno and it pulled 282kw with the de cat still a bit of where it should be

 

03352755-13B9-4BB4-B319-685C9B99AB92.jpeg

9026352A-C10F-4108-A6EB-BDA02281398E.jpeg

If they won't dyno it with the exhaust dropped do it yourself at home.

Yep, maybe the catback section to the muffler is more restrictive than the cat itself. Needs to be dynoed with front pipe only as I originally suggested and done myself to get a clear baseline of what's what. Are they saying they won't dyno it like that ?

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, BK said:

Yep, maybe the catback section to the muffler is more restrictive than the cat itself. Needs to be dynoed with front pipe only as I originally suggested and done myself to get a clear baseline of what's what. Are they saying they won't dyno it like that ?

Currently making them do that right now 

Ok so I took the cat straight off back on the dyno made 292kw boost spiked half a pound so there wasn’t much loss between previous run of 282kw with de cat and exhaust. I was expecting to see boost come on quicker still took until 4100-4200rpm. I’m being told valve springs are the issue and change the cooler 

EC13AA7C-8243-4C5D-A9A4-EB2269E0A35B.jpeg

2FB18559-E07D-4BD3-8921-4A49CE843663.jpeg

There's no evidence of valve springs on the charts, so unless they have good reason to say they think there's float, do the cooler first.

And by "do the cooler", I don't mean replace it. I mean tap into the pipe up and downstream of it and check the actual pressure drop across it.

A 10 kw improvement suggests there is an exhaust restriction so check the rear muffler at least. Stock cooler should be capable of more so as above check pressure either side. And consider trying another tuner.

I’m changing to a 3.5inch x force exhaust now and also doing a cooler pressure check, dare say I’ll be changing the cooler I gained 25kw just in exhaust restrictions so far. What’s to say my cooler isn’t stuffed at this point.Not gonna throw money at springs and cams just yet I’ll do a power run and report back also on the last run it had some slight mis fire on the 292kw run coil pack harness seems to be the suspect as I have brand new coil packs 

That slight misfire could also be CAS related, see if they've got the CAS filter enabled, I find Level 1 ~ 2 works well, but a brand new CAS or a trigger kit (crank, better cam, not as good as crank but better than the CAS) will fix heaps of problems.

2 hours ago, Chrisko33 said:

I’m changing to a 3.5inch x force exhaust now and also doing a cooler pressure check, dare say I’ll be changing the cooler I gained 25kw just in exhaust restrictions so far. What’s to say my cooler isn’t stuffed at this point.Not gonna throw money at springs and cams just yet I’ll do a power run and report back also on the last run it had some slight mis fire on the 292kw run coil pack harness seems to be the suspect as I have brand new coil packs 

Just checking - what coil packs did you get?

How is your fuel pump wired?  And how is the A/F ratio and injector duty cycle? 

I am asking because I had an episode with my pump not getting enough voltage.  The A/F ratio was fine but injector duty cycle was maxed out prematurely, and I lost about a good 40kw.  

3 hours ago, Stixbnr32 said:

Yeh but surely the tuner would figure that out pretty quickly.

The tuner figured out OP needs a cooler and valve springs.  I think it's pretty obvious those two items are getting the no confidence vote here.

  • Like 2
10 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

How is your fuel pump wired?  And how is the A/F ratio and injector duty cycle? 

I am asking because I had an episode with my pump not getting enough voltage.  The A/F ratio was fine but injector duty cycle was maxed out prematurely, and I lost about a good 40kw.  

Fuel pump is getting getting 12v that was checked when on the Dyno. Not sure what the duty cycle on injectors are I’ll find out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...