Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m on my way back from work when all of a sudden it feels like I lose one cylinder. Missfireing like crazy running real rough. I get back home and start trouble shooting what’s going on. Turns out one of my coil packs died but while I had all the spark plugs out I thought I’d give my new compression tester a go. Much to my dismay all 6 cylinders were around 110 psi. (full report below) I don’t believe this to be the cause of the misfire as I’m %99 my coil was munted. But still 110 psi in all 6 cylinders isn’t good. I’ve got a few ideas what could be causing the problem. But any input or ideas would be great. I’m thinking it could be worn piston rings or possibly ringland failure. Although I find it hard to believe the ringland failed on all 6 cylinders.  Also The engine only has 150k on it and is basically stock only thing I’ve done to it is upped the boost from 7 to11psi nothing crazy. But what I think the problem most likely is, is my timing belt is starting to go or skipped a tooth or something and is throwing the timing off and therefore the compression. But hey I’m just some hopeless 18 year old. If any of y’all have the slightest idea what could be going on some guidance would be greatly appreciated.?

Rb25det NEO in a rs4s stagea

150xxx kms

C1 105 psi 

C2 110 psi 

C3 107 psi

C4 110 psi

C5 105 psi

C6 117 psi

Edited by Selli160
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479319-low-compression-rb25/
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Now you shouldn't trust your technique. There's no way that it would have been ~110 before with a dud tester and now gone down to 90.

As above. 
sounds like you are really keen to rebuild this motor!

19 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Ignore results continue to drive  

 

I second this notion. When my last 2.6 started to drop compression I turned up the boost... Thing ran for another 80,000kms till I sold it.

1 hour ago, Selli160 said:

or get ready to rebuild the engine

No.....go back and read what I said. I find it very difficult to believe that your results are consistent. Try again before making any decisions. Also, a leakdown test is more informative than simple compression testing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Apex and welcome! 
    • Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex.  Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out.  Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor.  Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper.  The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it.  Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm).  I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above.   Hope that helps Cheers Gary    
    • If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required.  I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book.   Cheers Gary
    • Well the good news is that it won't run any worse with an atmo bov than it does with no bov, I've owned a few Nissans over the years (r32, s15 and now r33), the stalling issue caused by a bov or no bov while still having an afm is easy enough to live with, most people get used to driving them and just feathering the throttle when you come to a stop to avoid it stalling. Changing to a proper ecu with a map sensor is ideal but in the short term I'd just slap in the bov if you really want the whoosh sound. I looked into the pass through type maf like the R35 one above but decided against it as the amount of oil and crap flowing through the hot side would mean you'd have to clean it often to keep it working.
×
×
  • Create New...