Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

New to R33 world (loving it btw) however ive run into an issue i feel i kinda know what the problem is but want to get more information/advice.

So anywho i got my R33 a few months ago all was good and i bought the car stock i bought hard piping and a FMIC uprated radiator my turbo seals then blew out so replaced the turbo but since replacing the turbo i can't keep my idle stable it seems to stay around 1.5 - 2k and and lower about 1k seems like a misfire. Also when im driving and i dip the clutch the counter just shoots down to 0 and stalls so have to re engage a gear while rolling to start again.

Some things ive checked

Idle screw (AAC) all the way in pretty much (taken apart and cleaned)

Replaced spark plugs

TP Sensor (replaced brand new) set at 0.45v idle 4.11v full throttle

Re-solder MAF Sensor

Checked for air and vaccum leaks found nothing (only sprayed with brake cleaner to check) 

Now the only thing thats left on my head is that the *stock* BOV is blanked off and is venting to atmosphere of course to make the famous sound we all love however i feel like thats my problem with the air blowing back though the MAF giving a false reading could i be thinking right here??

Also found logged fault codes

43 - Throttle position circuit

12 - MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)

21 - Ignition circuit

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479402-97-r33-cutting-out/
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

At an internet mechanic guess, sounds like you've forgotten to block of the BOV return back into the intake pipe when you installed your whoosh valve.

It has been blocked off woth a metal plate between j pipe and stock bov

Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put  a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem ?

1 hour ago, Dil-Dog said:

Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put  a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem ?

Because they don't run air flow meters?

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 22/12/2019 at 7:20 AM, Dil-Dog said:

Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put  a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem ?

So... car ran fine before. You changed a part, then car immediately runs shit. Do you revert what you did to see if it fixes the issue?

 

Oh and those people running vented BOVs have aftermarket ECUs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...