Jump to content
SAU Community

97 R33 cutting out

Kodybr33

By Kodybr33,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kodybr33 Newbie

Kodybr33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

New to R33 world (loving it btw) however ive run into an issue i feel i kinda know what the problem is but want to get more information/advice.

So anywho i got my R33 a few months ago all was good and i bought the car stock i bought hard piping and a FMIC uprated radiator my turbo seals then blew out so replaced the turbo but since replacing the turbo i can't keep my idle stable it seems to stay around 1.5 - 2k and and lower about 1k seems like a misfire. Also when im driving and i dip the clutch the counter just shoots down to 0 and stalls so have to re engage a gear while rolling to start again.

Some things ive checked

Idle screw (AAC) all the way in pretty much (taken apart and cleaned)

Replaced spark plugs

TP Sensor (replaced brand new) set at 0.45v idle 4.11v full throttle

Re-solder MAF Sensor

Checked for air and vaccum leaks found nothing (only sprayed with brake cleaner to check) 

Now the only thing thats left on my head is that the *stock* BOV is blanked off and is venting to atmosphere of course to make the famous sound we all love however i feel like thats my problem with the air blowing back though the MAF giving a false reading could i be thinking right here??

Also found logged fault codes

43 - Throttle position circuit

12 - MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)

21 - Ignition circuit

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479402-97-r33-cutting-out/
Share on other sites
Kodybr33 Newbie

Kodybr33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

At an internet mechanic guess, sounds like you've forgotten to block of the BOV return back into the intake pipe when you installed your whoosh valve.

It has been blocked off woth a metal plate between j pipe and stock bov

Dil-Dog Collaborator

Dil-Dog

Posted
Posted

Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put  a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem ?

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Dil-Dog said:

Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put  a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem ?

Because they don't run air flow meters?

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted
On 22/12/2019 at 7:20 AM, Dil-Dog said:

Everything with my rb25 is perfect and it runs normal but Ever since i put  a greddy replica BOV i’ve been stalling\dying at weird times with no load when clutching in too.....it doesnt happen often but i think our problem may be the bov’s that vent to atmoshpere. But then even if its that why doesnt the million other people with aftermarket bov’s have this problem ?

So... car ran fine before. You changed a part, then car immediately runs shit. Do you revert what you did to see if it fixes the issue?

 

Oh and those people running vented BOVs have aftermarket ECUs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Butters
      UniClutch

      By Butters · Posted

      Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • Kinkstaah
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...