Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So my MPH is all good but im struggling with wheel spin so my 60ft is lazy.

Im on the left hand of the lane on this slip.

The right hand lane had drag radials on but I dont want to go there.  What is a good street tyre could be a semi slick but I want to be able to run on the street/summer driving.

R32 GTR with Stock 16" wheels and hunting the 10 sec pass.

Thanks.

ET.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479721-14-mile-time/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

How many passes have you done?

Don't be surprised if seat time alone does the trick.

It looks not only the 60 is a bit off so is the 1/8.

Which points more to seat time, tyres won't help there.

This, R/T is a bit sluggish as well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479721-14-mile-time/#findComment-7924457
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ben C34 said:

How many passes have you done?

Don't be surprised if seat time alone does the trick.

It looks not only the 60 is a bit off so is the 1/8.

Which points more to seat time, tyres won't help there.

On this clutch and gear box 3....on the old setup that was abit shot to pieces 20 odd.  

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479721-14-mile-time/#findComment-7924459
Share on other sites

Achilles 123S are a pretty decent street tyre, a GTSt I tune almost hit 11s with "only" 123mph trap speed and very gentle launches because he was having axle tramp issues - doesn't sound that great, but ~12.1 in a RWD Skyline on 18" street tyres isn't too shabby even before you consider it still had some traction in reserve if it weren't for the tramp.

Edited by Lithium
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479721-14-mile-time/#findComment-7924741
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

On nankang ns2000 tyres, the really naaaaaaaaasty ones with my hillclimb alignment in the car still i went 1.6 to the 60, 7.4 to the 1/8th and 139.9 to the 1/[email protected]. You have a 10 in that. Get the alignment sorted, drop your tyre pressure to 26 and try again

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479721-14-mile-time/#findComment-7928101
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...