Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You are correct r32 Gtr manual states front right sensor....try cleaning it, it’s very easy to take off. Just curious are your abs and 4wd light on? I just went through all this shit I’m sure we can solve it quick. 

54BE5EAA-5FDE-48D5-ADF0-7BFFC529531F.jpeg

Edited by MoMnDadGTR

ok so you currently are in 2wd.  so lets get this beat. 1. make sure you have a good positive and negative connection to your battery. 2. check the main ground from battery to frame to engine mount. now that the grounds are good make sure the connection for the wheel sensor is actually plugged in. its near the drivers side strut tower in the engine bay ill take a picture for you. as far as cleaning it goes, im sure you could even just wipe it if you remove it, I used brake cleaner.

No I’m pretty old school mate no Facebook, could be a good thread for others if we fix it as well. I know when I was fixing my error codes I found lots of threads with unsolved mystery ha. Here’s a picture of abs connector for right sensor.

63D0AAA9-50DC-48CE-8ADA-EA1D912B2F36.jpeg

Okay i can confirm my one is connected. But maybe it's not a solid connection whete there may be crap contact. 

 

I'll pull out my sensor and give it a clean after work today. 

My battery was relocated to the  boot after my engine build. My awd was working perfectly before 

 

I'll relocate the battery ground cable as it is now connected to the boot latch nut there. I might try the strut tower? 

I also chased wires like you until I replaced my atessa computer in the trunk of car(atessa control unit). mine had water damage from my rear windshield sprayer leaking and was telling me codes that weren't real. check for power and continuity at that clip as well that I just posted if all else fails. hoping that connector is loose as your issue.

if it was working before I wouldn't think move the ground. be patient. my car is setup very simple(no battery relocation or anything) so it was very easy to diagnose and fix. there are some super rebutable guys on here im sure they will step in if cleaning it doesn't work. just a question what ecu are you running? ive heard and seen guys having awd problems with apexi jetro systems...if you still have a stock ecu try a different one if you can get your hands on one

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2017/05/r32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-attesa-code-1.html

this is a link for trouble shooting your error code, im 99 percent sure this will lead you to your issue...the manual has worked every time for me in solving these attesa codes. I would print it off(about 800 pages so use your works printer full r32 gtr manual) if I was you is a gtr bible!

I highly suggest trouble shooting it with the link I sent you. (It’s straight from r32 gtr manual brotha) This will rule out things quick if you know how to use a multi meter. Way better than guessing but hope it works out.....all you have to do is pull the plugs from the atessa control unit and get to work. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...